The island's interior demands sturdy hiking boots and a hire car. This itinerary leaves the coastline behind to explore the limestone canyons, prehistoric villages and windswept plateaus of central Sardegna. The months from April to mid-June and autumn from September to November offer ideal temperatures for walking several hours a day without risking heatstroke or early fatigue.
Your exploration begins in the south before heading up into Medio Campidano and onto the winding roads of Supramonte. Careful planning is needed to balance the rigid opening hours of archaeological parks with the generous timings required for mountain trails. Avoiding July and August is essential if you want to tackle the rugged gorges.
This archaeological and natural itinerary takes no prisoners if you travel unprepared, but rewards you with raw, isolated landscapes and pristine traces of Bronze Age civilisations, far from the beach crowds.
Day by day
Day 1 — From Cagliari to ancient history
Morning
Your first encounter with the island's ancient past takes place at the Museo Archeologico Nazionale di Cagliari, situated in Quartiere Castello on Piazza Arsenale. Its rooms house the region's most important archaeological collection, including the famous Giganti di Mont'e Prama and Nuragic bronze statuettes. The museum opens at 8:30 and takes a couple of hours to explore properly. For lunch, head over to Corso Vittorio Emanuele II 380 for ChiaroScuro di Marina Ravarotto. The restaurant serves refined, authentic Sardinian cuisine and is renowned for preparing Su Filindeu, an exceptionally rare and intricate pasta shape.
Afternoon
The afternoon is dedicated to exploring the Quartiere Storico di Castello e Bastione di Saint Remy, also in Cagliari. This fortified medieval district perches on the hillside. Walking its stone perimeters involves several hours of climbing up and down narrow lanes, so pace yourself to finish the stroll at the top before dusk.
Evening
Late afternoon is the ideal time to step onto the panoramic terraces of the Bastione and watch the sunset over the city rooftops. For dinner, nearby Josto awaits at Via Sassari 25. Located in the historic centre, it offers a contemporary take on island produce, reimagining local flavours with modern culinary techniques.
Day 2 — Megaliths and ancient coastal cities
Morning
Leave the coast behind and head uphill towards Medio Campidano. Your first stop is the Complesso Nuragico Su Nuraxi in Barumini, a megalithic stronghold dating from the 2nd millennium BC and the region's only UNESCO World Heritage site. Access to the underground tholos is restricted, with guided tours lasting about an hour and departing every thirty minutes. The combined ticket also grants entry to the nearby Polo Museale Casa Zapata, also in Barumini: a Spanish noble residence built directly on top of a nuraghe, viewed from suspended glass walkways on a 30-minute tour. Afterwards, drive up to the Altopiano della Giara di Gesturi in the Marmilla area, a volcanic basalt plateau where you can walk and spot the local wild horses.
Afternoon
Driving north, you will reach Paulilatino and the Santuario Nuragico di Santa Cristina. This Bronze Age site features a sacred well built from flawlessly polished basalt blocks. It is open from 8:30 until sunset, and a visit takes around an hour and a half. In the late afternoon, as temperatures cool, make your way to the west coast on the Penisola del Sinis near Cabras to visit the Area Archeologica di Tharros. The remains of this Phoenician-Roman city, complete with thermal baths, paved streets and columns, sit dramatically perched above the sea.
Evening
After exploring Tharros right up until closing time, wind down your evening in the surrounding province of Oristano, an ideal logistical base for a good night's rest before driving into the mountainous interior the following morning.
Day 3 — Fresh waters and karst valleys
Morning
The route takes you into the territories of Sedilo and Sorradile along the shores of Lago Omodeo. It is one of the largest artificial reservoirs in Italy, framed by basalt plateaus and footpaths. The shores are well suited to canoeing and birdwatching. Just above the lake lies the Parco Archeologico di Iloi in Sedilo. Overlooking the water, the site can be explored on foot or on horseback, leading you past giants' graves, rock-cut domus de janas and a central nuraghe.
Afternoon
State and provincial roads bring you into Barbagia in about an hour and fifteen minutes. Arriving in Valle di Lanaittu, between Oliena and Dorgali, pick up the trail for the Villaggio Nuragico di Tiscali. The archaeological settlement lies tucked inside an enormous karst sinkhole atop the mountain. The hike is of moderate difficulty, taking about 3 to 4 hours return and calling for proper trekking shoes. On the way back, stop at the Sorgenti di Su Gologone in Oliena. This karst spring is sheltered by eucalyptus woods. You can park easily at the entrance and spend an hour walking around or rent a kayak on the river Cedrino.
Evening
In Oliena, there are two classic options for dinner. Locanda Tipica Sa Corte at Via Nuoro 138 serves roast meats, handmade fresh pasta and Cannonau Nepente wine. Alternatively, Ristorante Su Gologone in Località Su Gologone roasts classic porceddu over a massive open fireplace alongside local cheeses and maccarones de busa. If you like, you can spend the night at the Su Gologone Experience Hotel, set right by the spring.
Day 4 — Deep into Supramonte
Morning
You will need plenty of energy this morning to tackle the Gola di Gorropu in Supramonte, between Dorgali and Urzulei. With cliffs soaring up to 500 metres, this sheer canyon entails a strenuous 4- to 5-hour trek. The canyon gates open at 10:00 and close at 16:30. Once inside, the canyon floor is divided into green, yellow and red sectors, the latter reserved strictly for experienced trekkers.
Afternoon
Spend the afternoon covering shorter distances around Dorgali. The Villaggio Nuragico di Serra Orrios preserves nearly a hundred huts and two megaron-style temples among ancient olive trees. A short drive away, a quick walk along an unpaved track brings you to the Tomba dei Giganti di S'Ena 'e Thomes, featuring an intact central monolithic stele almost 4 metres high. The final stop before dinner is Cala Fuili, near Cala Gonone: a cove flanked by rock-climbing crags and the trailhead for coastal paths heading to Cala Luna.
Evening
Round off the journey by driving up into the mountain villages. At Abbamele Osteria, located at Corso V. Emanuele III 59 in Mamoiada, enjoy dishes crafted from Supramonte ingredients in the village renowned for its traditional Mamuthones.
Practical travel tips
- A hire car is essential for covering the mountain distances of Supramonte. The provincial roads and the SS125 Orientale Sarda are very winding: allow at least an hour and a quarter to travel from the Oristano and Barumini area towards Oliena or Dorgali.
- Plan your approach to Gola di Gorropu in advance, starting from the scenic Ghenna Silana trailhead or from Sa Barva in Dorgali. Bring small bank notes, as entry at the ticket hut is cash only and cannot be paid online.
- Access to the underground ruins of the Su Nuraxi complex in Barumini operates on strict time slots. At weekends and during warmer months, book your slot ahead of time to secure entry and avoid waiting hours under the blazing sun.
- You will need hiking boots with deep tread, and not just for walking in the gorges. The internal steps of the megalithic towers in Barumini and the descent into the sacred well at Santa Cristina are steep and the stone can be very slippery.
- Excluding accommodation, budget an average daily spend of €70 to €95 per person. This covers car hire and fuel, entry tickets for archaeological sites (which range from €6 to €15) and meals in local trattorie.
Where to stay
Historic hotel immersed in the Supramonte countryside, handy for walking to the nearby natural spring.
View on Booking →Located on Via per Oddoene, convenient for an early start towards the trails of Tiscali and Gorropu.
View on Booking →Accommodation in the heart of the village, ideal for arriving right at opening time at the Su Nuraxi nuragic complex.
View on Booking →