Viterbo feels compact and carved from dark stone. Its city walls enclose an urban layout where the widespread use of peperino stone dominates facades and pavements alike. What makes this area unique is its layered history: traces of the Etruscans blend seamlessly into a remarkably preserved medieval street plan, while just outside the walls, volcanic ground feeds hot thermal springs that have been used for millennia. You won't find wide, airy avenues here, but rather a maze of squares and narrow passageways made for exploring at an unhurried pace.
The best time to travel to Tuscia is in spring and early autumn. If you can manage a trip between April and June, or September and October, temperatures are ideal for long walks over the tufa stone and for soaking in open-air hot baths without the sweltering heat of August or winter's chill. By choosing a central place to stay, such as B&B dei Papi Boutique Hotel, you can explore the entire historic centre on foot.
How to plan your days in Viterbo
Day 1 — The medieval core and underground tunnels
Morning
Your first morning begins in the city's civic heart, at Piazza del Plebiscito e Palazzo dei Priori. The palace features frescoed halls and a courtyard with a scenic fountain. From here, the streets climb towards the Piazza San Lorenzo complex. This area is home to the city's most significant landmarks, so it pays to arrive early in the morning to beat the tour groups. Start at the Cattedrale di San Lorenzo, the Romanesque cathedral with its two-tone bell tower built in the 14th century and a grand monumental sacristy. Right next door stands the Palazzo dei Papi e Polo Monumentale Colle del Duomo, unmistakable with the graceful arches of its Loggia delle Benedizioni. A visit takes between an hour and an hour and a half and includes access to the Aula del Conclave. If you're visiting on a Saturday or Sunday, book a few days in advance.
Afternoon
To break up the day, head to Via della Chigi, where Il Richiastro serves traditional peasant recipes and hearty local soups. Once refreshed, your route takes you quite literally underground. Beneath the tarmac of Piazza della Morte lies Viterbo Sotterranea. Step down into a network of tunnels carved straight into the tufa stone: first dug by the Etruscans, they served logistical roles in the Middle Ages and became air-raid shelters during the Second World War. Guided tours run continuously and take around 25 minutes. Back above ground, the late afternoon light is the perfect time to wander through the Quartiere Medievale di San Pellegrino. Set aside around an hour to roam aimlessly, taking in tower houses, peperino alleys and profferli—the distinctive external stone staircases typical of the city.
Evening
Stay in the historic centre for dinner. At L'Osteria del Vicolo, on Via San Vito, you'll find local classics, above all lombrichelli pasta and hearty acquacotta viterbese. To cap off your Saturday, take advantage of the local thermal waters: Terme dei Papi, on Strada Bagni, features a monumental open-air pool spanning over 2,000 square metres and stays open until 1:00 am, giving you the chance to soak in warm water under the night sky. Be sure to book ahead.
Day 2 — Stone villages, parks and crater lakes
Morning
Day two takes you beyond the city centre, meaning a car is essential. About 5 kilometres away, in the hamlet of Bagnaia, lies Villa Lante. This Mannerist estate unfolds across tiered water terraces: streams flow through geometric parterres to feed the Fontana dei Mori, accompanied by ingenious Renaissance water features. Plan to spend an hour and a half to two hours in the gardens. Back in the car, a 20-minute drive west brings you to the Riserva Naturale Lago di Vico. The volcanic caldera has nurtured a lush, dense environment, ideal for spending the rest of the morning on the Trekking al Lago di Vico e Sentiero Pozzo del Diavolo, walking beneath expansive beech woods.
Afternoon
Continuing on, lunch options lead towards the hamlet of Grotte Santo Stefano, where Agriristorante Il Casaletto serves meat reared on site and boasts the Tre Spicchi award for its artisan pizza. In the afternoon, if you fancy the water, the Lungolago e Borgo di Capodimonte (Lago di Bolsena) perches on a promontory. Stroll along the scenic lakeside promenade gazing out across the volcanic basin towards Isola Bisentina. Alternatively, driving in the opposite direction, the Sacro Bosco di Bomarzo (Parco dei Mostri) offers an enchanting two-hour walk among monstrous, distorted 16th-century sculptures carved out of huge volcanic boulders emerging from the forest floor.
Evening
Head back into the centro storico di Viterbo for your final meal, with two distinct options. On Via Orologio Vecchio, Osteria del Vecchio Orologio is a historic haunt built of peperino brick, serving lake fish and countryside produce. Over on Via Vallepiatta, gur.me offers a more modern twist on local ingredients, such as coniglio leprino, best enjoyed at tables on its pleasant outdoor terrace.
Top tips for your trip
- To skip queues at the Piazza San Lorenzo ticket offices, buy the monumental complex combined ticket (or the Viterbo Pass) online. Along with saving money compared to single admissions, you'll get direct access to the palace, cathedral and museum.
- The area enclosed by the city walls is a Zona a Traffico Limitato with very narrow lanes. Leave your car in the car parks outside the walls, particularly around Valle Faul or Porta Faul, and head up to Colle del Duomo on foot using the panoramic lifts.
- While the historic centre is easily explored on foot, a car is the only reliable way to venture further out. Allow roughly 10 minutes to drive to Bagnaia, 5-10 minutes to Strada Bagni, and up to 30 minutes to reach either of the two lakes.
- If you plan to visit the monumental thermal pool, bear in mind that the spa complex is closed every Tuesday.
- Expect average costs per person, excluding accommodation, of around €80-130. This covers sightseeing passes (€15-20), lunches or dinners in central trattorie (€25-40 per meal), and entry to the large thermal pool (€18-20).
Where to stay
A period residence tucked into the ancient urban fabric, ideally placed for stepping straight out on foot to explore the monuments.
View on Booking →Set right by Piazza del Plebiscito and the Chiesa di Santa Maria Nuova, right in the heart of the city.
View on Booking →En-suite rooms in renovated premises, offering breakfast through a partner cafe nearby.
View on Booking →