Viterbo is best explored on foot, weaving through cobbled alleys and past ancient stone houses. Enclosed by medieval walls, the historic centre is a maze of narrow streets hiding 13th-century palazzi and unexpected vistas. Wandering here means discovering a quiet, authentic Viterbo, where peperino—the typical local grey stone—defines every building.
The city strikes a fine balance between history and relaxation. You can go from monumental squares reflecting the 13th-century power of the Popes straight to the thermal springs just outside the walls, fed by the Bullicame spring. A weekend here lets you roam historic working-class quarters and spend a few hours soaking in 34-degree waters, without ever straying far from the centre.
3 days in Viterbo: the itinerary
Day 1 — From Colle del Duomo to San Pellegrino
Morning
Start your day at Palazzo dei Papi e Loggia delle Benedizioni, the city's 13th-century landmark. Looking out over the same square is Cattedrale di San Lorenzo e Museo Colle del Duomo; the Romanesque cathedral features a 14th-century two-tone striped bell tower, whilst the museum traces the Etruscan, Roman and papal history of the hill.
Afternoon
Head over to Quartiere Medievale di San Pellegrino, one of the best-preserved 13th-century medieval quarters in Europe. As you stroll along the stone lanes, look out for tower houses and traditional external profferli staircases. Step into scenic Piazza San Pellegrino to admire Palazzo degli Alessandri, a 13th-century residence that survived local factional wars.
Evening
For dinner, stop by Il Richiastro (Via della Marrocca), set in a charming medieval internal courtyard and renowned for its soups and acquacotta. Alternatively, over in the Via Vallepiatta area, gur.me offers a lovely outdoor seating area and excellent gourmet pizzas at the weekend.
Day 2 — Underground Viterbo and city squares
Morning
Make your way to Piazza della Morte to explore Viterbo Sotterranea. This intricate network of tunnels carved into the tufa rock spans from Etruscan times to the Second World War; guided tours of the short route take about 20-30 minutes and require no advance booking. Carry on towards Piazza del Plebiscito e Palazzo dei Priori, the civic heart overlooked by the Torre dell'Orologio.
Afternoon
Visit Chiesa di Santa Maria Nuova, one of the city's oldest churches, with its medieval cloister and an external corner pulpit where Saint Thomas Aquinas once preached. Walk on to Santuario e Monastero di Santa Rosa, a place of worship housing the body of the patron saint, deeply linked to the Macchina di Santa Rosa procession.
Evening
Dine at Osteria del Vecchio Orologio (Via Orologio Vecchio), open since 1966, featuring characteristic peperino arches, homemade pasta and traditional Viterbo recipes. If you fancy grilled meat instead, Hostaria Lo Spito (Via San Leonardo) is an honest, traditional trattoria with exposed stone walls.
Day 3 — Renaissance gardens and thermal baths
Morning
Head to Bagnaia, around 4 km from the centre, to visit Villa Lante. This Renaissance masterpiece is celebrated for its terraced Italian gardens, monumental fountains and water features designed by Vignola. It is about 10-15 minutes by car from the centre, or you can take the local Francigena bus lines.
Afternoon
Explore Quartiere Pianoscarano e Fontana del Piano, an authentic, traditional medieval neighbourhood. Its 14th-century dog-washing fountain was at the centre of an uprising against Pope Urban V. Next, make your way to Piscina Monumentale delle Terme dei Papi in the Strada Bagni area. This open-air pool spanning over 2,000 sq m is naturally heated to 34°C; booking ahead is recommended (closed on Tuesdays).
Evening
If you opt for a Saturday evening soak, the pool at Terme dei Papi stays open until 1:00 in the morning. For dinner, if you are able to drive out to the hamlet of Grotte Santo Stefano, Agriristorante Il Casaletto serves superb artisan cured meats and farm-to-table produce from its own livestock.
Practical tips for your weekend
- To beat the weekend queues, buy the combined Colle del Duomo ticket: it covers Palazzo dei Papi, the Loggia, the cathedral and the diocesan museum with an audio guide.
- The historic centre is a restricted traffic zone (ZTL), full of cobbled lanes and stone steps. Wear comfortable flat shoes to tackle the climbs with ease.
- Leave the car at Valle Faul (Piazzale Divisione Paracadutisti Folgore): it is a spacious car park outside the walls, connected to Colle del Duomo by free public lifts.
- If you are in a camper van, you can park at Valle Faul, but the lanes are tight for longer vehicles and bays fill quickly; aim to arrive early in the morning or late in the afternoon.
- If you plan to visit the pool at Terme dei Papi, bear in mind it is closed every Tuesday; on Saturdays, it stays open for atmospheric late-night bathing.
Where to stay in Viterbo
An elegant property just 300 metres from Palazzo dei Papi, ideal for exploring the historic centre on foot.
View on Booking →A 4-star hotel offering direct access to thermal treatments, roughly 3 km from the city centre.
View on Booking →A quiet location with parking around 2 km from the centre, handy for visiting Villa Lante and the thermal baths.
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