Reaching Chamois calls for a slight change of habits. No car keys, no traffic, no parking outside your hotel. The village is completely closed to motor vehicles, a detail that immediately sets the pace for the days ahead. The only way up is to take the regional cable car from the valley floor, or tackle the climb on foot if you have good legs. This roadless seclusion has kept the village fabric intact, with alpine stone-and-timber architecture clustering around the meadows.
When you plan your visit changes the experience considerably. Between mid-June and September, the pastures burst into flower, alpine rifugi reopen in full swing, and chairlifts make it easy to head up towards the high lakes, making hikes with views of Cervino remarkably accessible. Choose the months from December to March instead, and you'll find a snow-covered landscape ideal for snowshoeing and skiing without the sound of traffic. In either season, distances are measured in minutes of walking rather than kilometres, gently forcing you to slow down.
Staying in the village, perhaps at Maison Cly Hôtel & Restaurant or in a historic rascard like B&B Rascard d'Antan, means you can watch the crowds thin out in the late afternoon, as day-trippers head back down on the cable car. Come evening, only residents and overnight guests remain, and the dominant sound once again becomes the wind or running water.
How to plan your three days
Day 1 — Arrival and first steps in the village
Morning
Your day inevitably begins in Buisson, where you leave the car to catch the cable car. Once you arrive up top, you step straight into Borgo di Corgnolaz e Centro Storico di Chamois. Spending an hour or two exploring the main village at your own pace helps you get used to the complete absence of motor vehicles and the pedestrian lanes. A short walk away stands Chiesa Parrocchiale di San Pantaleone, in the hamlet between Corgnolaz and Liussel. Consecrated in 1681, inside it features an intricately carved 18th-century Baroque wooden altar originally from Torgnon. A visit takes around 20-30 minutes. For a midday meal with a fixed Valdostan menu, you can stop at Ristoro Ostello Bellevue, also in Corgnolaz, which features a panoramic terrace and a welcoming dining room.
Afternoon
In the afternoon, make your way towards the hamlet of Suisse. Along the walk, pause at Altiporto di Chamois, opened in 1967. It was Italy's first altiport with a sloping grass runway, and today it is used by light aircraft and hang-gliders. A stop here takes about 30 minutes, giving you time to take in the unique lay of the land. If you fancy a longer walk, you can tackle a section of Mulattiera 'Les Seingles', the ancient access route used before the cable car was built. The path features 93 paved hairpin bends winding down towards Buisson past waterfalls and glimpses of Monte Emilius. The full walk, up or down, takes roughly an hour and a half to two hours, so keep an eye on your timings.
Evening
For dinner, stay in Corgnolaz. Ristorante Chez Pierina serves home-style Valdostan cooking: specialities include bread soup, polenta concia with stew, and lasagnette with Bleu d'Aoste. Remember to book a few days ahead, especially on weekends, to secure a table.
Day 2 — Lakes and high altitudes
Morning
Day two aims for higher ground. The first destination is Lago di Lod, at an altitude of 2,015 metres. You can choose whether to ride up effortlessly on the chairlift directly from Corgnolaz, or hike for around 30-40 minutes. The area around this alpine lake features an equipped picnic site. From the lake, the hike continues towards Santuario di Clavalité (Point Sublime), at 2,530 metres. This stretch takes around two to three hours on foot, although you can use the lifts as an alternative. Your arrival point, home to the sanctuary dedicated to San Domenico Savio, guarantees a sweeping panorama over Cervino and the Grandes Murailles.
Afternoon
After descending from the sanctuary, pause for lunch near the lake. Agriturismo La Tchavana, located at Alpe di Metsan near Lago di Lod, has animals grazing nearby and serves zero-kilometre alpine cheeses, traditional polenta dishes, and local cured meats. In the afternoon, wander gently back down to Corgnolaz on foot or by chairlift, taking time to explore the village's quieter backstreets.
Evening
Dinner is at Ristorante La Baita Fontana Freida, set within Maison Cly. The dining room has an elegant feel and the menu offers creative takes on traditional Valdostan recipes, using local, zero-kilometre ingredients.
Day 3 — Watermills and the neighbouring village
Morning
The morning of your final day follows Sentiero dell'Energia, linking Chamois to La Magdeleine. It is a flat 4.5-kilometre walk along the ancient Ru Veuillen, taking around an hour on foot or by mountain bike. The trail features several informative boards on renewable energy. As you near Col Pilaz, between La Magdeleine and Chamois, you'll encounter Grande Panchina Rossa del Col Pilaz, a giant bench overlooking Cervino that makes for a great photo stop.
Afternoon
A 15-minute walk from Chamois, near La Magdeleine, marks the start of Sentiero degli Otto Mulini. This historical and ethnographic route takes around an hour and a half: it follows a stream connecting eight 18th-century watermills that were once used to grind grain for traditional black bread. Once you finish the walk, stop for lunch at Trattoria Lo Scoiattolo, in the hamlet of Vieu in La Magdeleine, renowned for its hearty rustic dishes and carbonade with polenta. Back down in the valley, collect your car in Buisson and drive for about 30 minutes towards Valtournenche to visit Villaggio alpino di Cheneil. This is another car-free hamlet, sitting at 2,100 metres at the foot of Grand Tournalin. An easy, self-guided visit fills half a day before your journey home.
Evening
Head home or wrap up your day after your afternoon visit to Cheneil, driving down along the valley's main road.
Practical tips for your trip
- You must leave your car in Buisson, a hamlet of Antey-Saint-André on the SR46. The regional car park at the cable car station costs around €3 per day, with the first two hours free. Anyone travelling in a camper van or caravan will need to find overnight accommodation elsewhere, as overnight stays in these vehicles are not permitted in the car park.
- The Buisson-Chamois regional cable car runs daily from 07:00 to 22:25, with departures every 30 minutes, increasing to every 15 minutes at busy times. A return ticket costs between €5.50 and €5.80, making it easy to travel up or down even in the evening.
- Getting around between the hamlets is done strictly on foot or by bicycle. Sentiero dell'Energia to La Magdeleine takes around an hour and is flat enough to manage comfortably with an all-terrain pushchair.
- Pets are welcome on the cable car. However, medium and large dogs must be kept on a lead and muzzled; if you don't have a muzzle with you, you can buy one directly at the ticket office before boarding.
- Allow a budget of roughly €45-65 per person per day for day-to-day expenses (excluding accommodation). This covers trips on the cable car or chairlifts and meals in rifugi, which cost around €25-35 each.
Where to spend the night
4-star hotel with a wellness spa, an on-site restaurant, and classic Valdostan architecture.
View on Booking →A traditional regional property, created from the restoration of a historic stone-and-timber barn.
View on Booking →A family-run alpine rifugio and hostel, ideal if you want direct access to the trails.
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