Getting to Chiappera takes time and a certain confidence with mountain roads. To reach the 1,614-metre altitude of the last inhabited village in upper Valle Maira, you need to take the SP422 provincial road starting from Dronero. Allow about forty-five to fifty minutes of hairpin bends, on a road that narrows in the final stretch and requires careful manoeuvring, especially if you pass other vehicles or camper vans. It is a closed valley floor where public transport is scarce: you need a car or van to get there and move between the hamlets.
The village announces itself from afar thanks to the silhouette of the Gruppo Castello-Provenzale, a quartzite rock spur that encloses the basin and acts as a visual landmark for the whole valley. The Borgo Antico di Chiappera has been restored in recent years, respecting its original architecture. The houses are made of exposed stone and the roofs are covered with traditional 'lose' (stone slabs). The alleys are narrow and no-nonsense. Anyone staying the night here, for example choosing the Rifugio La Scuola di Chiappera or stopping further down the valley at the Hotel Londra Locanda Occitana, does so with the idea of walking the next day. Planning your trip depends largely on the water: it is best to go up between June and the first weeks of July to find the streams at their fullest, before the dry spell of August and autumn.
How to fit the trails into your three days
Day 1 — Arriving in Saretto and the first lake
Morning
Before reaching the end of the tarmac road, you should make a first stop at Borgata Saretto e Lago di Saretto. This alpine hamlet comes before the final hairpin bends and offers a peaceful stretch of water where you can break up the driving. Once you leave your vehicle near the banks, it takes just five to ten minutes of walking to reach the Sorgenti del Maira e Grotte di Travertino. At this exact spot, the Maira stream surfaces directly from underground, surrounded by a dense forest of mountain pine.
Afternoon
The uphill track of the Sentiero Frassati starts from the springs. Rucksacks packed, you face an hour and a half of continuous walking to reach Lago Visaisa. This is a mountain lake deeply set between the rock faces. You will feel the climb in your calves, but it helps your body acclimatise to the altitude. After the hike, head back down the trail to collect the car.
Evening
For the evening, head back a few kilometres towards the Borgo di Acceglio Capoluogo, about ten minutes away from Chiappera. This is the main town housing the municipality's services, characterised by its Occitan-style facades. Dinner is served at the Ristorante Hotel Londra, a historic inn on Via Borgo Villa. The menu does not attempt modern twists: they serve alpine dishes such as valley gnocchi and slow-stewed cuts of meat.
Day 2 — The climb towards Lago Niera
Morning
Your Saturday alarm goes off early. To find a free spot in the dirt clearings beyond the Rifugio Campo Base, at the crossroads for the Ponte delle Fie or towards Grange Ciarviera, you absolutely must park before half past eight. The target is the Cascate di Stroppia, among the highest waterfalls in Italy with their five-hundred-metre drop. To climb upstream, take the Sentiero Dino Icardi e Bivacco Stroppia. The track is steep and uses an equipped ledge along the side of the rock face. Allow between four and five hours for the entire round trip, reaching the 2,300-metre altitude of Lago Niera, the basin that creates the waterfall.
Afternoon
The long descent brings you back towards the start of the Vallone del Maurin. To replenish your calories, stop at the Rifugio Campo Base. Its position at the start of the trails makes it a must: the kitchens serve platters of local cured meats, polenta dishes and various types of Piedmontese beers to walk off the morning's fatigue.
Evening
At the end of the day, base yourself among the alleys of the Borgo Antico di Chiappera. Dine at the Ristorante Rifugio di Chiappera (La Scuola), at Borgata Chiappera 78. The tables are set up inside an old restored alpine school: you eat home-cooked dishes sitting near the roaring fireplace, a useful detail given the evening drop in temperature at this altitude.
Day 3 — The tour of the quartzite spur
Morning
The final hike heads to the base of the valley's landmark mountain. The Anello attorno a Rocca Provenzale e Colle Greguri requires a walking time that ranges from three hours and forty-five minutes to four hours. The trail completely circles the rocky monolith of the Gruppo Castello-Provenzale, allowing you to observe the traditional climbing routes. Because of the quartzite's composition and the presence of lichen, the rock in this area becomes extremely slippery with morning humidity or after a downpour: you need footwear with excellent grip on the terrain.
Afternoon
Having completed the hiking loop, before leaving, grab a seat in the centre of the village at the tables of the Bar Ristoro Maria (La Provenzale). They prepare mountain brunches, baked cakes and mixed platters. Alternatively, if your legs can still take it and you prefer border environments, you can head for the Colle del Maurin (Col de Mary) starting from Grange Ciarviera: you need five hours for the round trip to reach the historic alpine pass at 2,637 metres that divides Italy from France.
Evening
The final hours are spent descending to the plains. Those travelling on wheels and needing to sort out their vehicle before the journey will find a fully equipped camper van parking area in Acceglio along the banks of the stream, which is handy for loading and unloading before tackling the hairpin bends towards Dronero.
Practical tips for the upper valley
- The water of the Cascate di Stroppia is tied to the thawing of Lago Niera: if you want to see them flowing, strictly organise your outing between early June and the first half of July, otherwise you will only find dry rocks.
- During high season weekends, the car park in the Vallone del Maurin (Ponte delle Fie and Grange Ciarviera) fills up fast: it is best to park your car by half past eight in the morning to avoid adding a long walk to the start of the trails.
- The lichen on the walls of the Gruppo Castello-Provenzale makes the quartzite as slippery as ice if there is morning humidity or recent rain: do not tackle the routes at the base without trekking shoes with excellent grip.
- To drive up to Chiappera from Dronero via the SP422 requires 45-50 minutes of demanding driving: the road narrows in the last few kilometres, requiring particular care at junctions if you are driving a camper van or a bulky van.
Basecamps to drop your rucksack
Agriturismo and bed and breakfast set in a typical period stone building, inside the hamlet.
View on Booking →Rest stop in Borgata Chiappera 78, with basic, warm rooms inside a restored historic building.
View on Booking →Traditional alpine hotel located on Via Borgo Villa, with the main services a short distance away.
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