Spring and early autumn are the right times to arrive here. The sun warms without burning, the beaches rest after the summer onslaught and the woodland trails smell of damp resin. Populonia and its bay have a different rhythm when they aren't overrun by bathers: they become a rugged and silent slice of Toscana, where stones tell millennia-old stories and the sea has the dark reflections of iron.
This corner of the Etruscan coast cannot be understood from a car window. You have to walk. There is dust on the trails heading down to the sea, there are steep inclines and slippery stretches, but it's the only way to get away from the crowded square and find silence. Between the umbrella pine forest of the bay and the cliffs dropping sheer to the sea, the ancient Etruscan civilisation has left its best traces. There's no need to rush to see everything: all you need are comfortable shoes, water in your backpack and the desire to take the weekend slowly, before the days get shorter and cold winds sweep away the last leaves.
Two-day itinerary in Populonia
Day 1 — From the tombs to the sea
Morning
The best way to start is at the Necropoli di San Cerbone, right down by the sea. It's best to arrive early in the morning, showing up at the ticket office a good half hour before the guided tour (allow about an hour for the full tour). Here you see the large tumulus tombs, like the famous Tomba dei Carri. Immediately after, lace up your hiking boots and climb towards the Necropoli delle Grotte e Via delle Cave. It's a woodland trail that takes a good couple of hours: the last entry is allowed up to two and a half hours before closing, so late morning is the perfect time. For a quick meal, stop at the Chiosco Al Polpo Marino in the bay, in Piazzetta dei Villini: boiled octopus, fried seafood in a paper cone and a glass of wine, to eat at the tables outside or seeking shade in the pine forest.
Afternoon
After eating, lay out a towel at the Spiaggia e Pineta del Golfo di Baratti. The sand has dark iron reflections, an ancient legacy of the Etruscan metal industry. Rest under the pine trees, go for a swim if the season allows, or simply enjoy the afternoon fading into sunset. From here, drive up (parking in the Casone area is expensive in summer, keep that in mind) towards Populonia Alta.
Evening
For dinner, head up to the fortified village and look for the Osteria La Torre di Populonia in Via San Giovanni. You need to book it in advance. They serve authentic Toscana food: homemade pici, meat and, of course, fish. If you feel like sleeping surrounded by greenery instead, a short distance away is the Agriturismo Baratti or, just a bit further, the Agriturismo Valle dei Venti.
Day 2 — The village, the acropolis and the wild cove
Morning
The day begins in Populonia Alta. Enter the Rocca e Borgo Medievale di Populonia: walk within the walls, climb the fourteenth-century tower (you can see the entire Toscana archipelago on clear days) and allow about an hour. Then head down into the old olive press for the Museo Etrusco di Populonia - Collezione Gasparri: in three quarters of an hour you'll see Villanovan and Etruscan artefacts and underwater recoveries. From here, stroll towards the Acropoli di Populonia (Parco Archeologico). There's walking to be done among Roman and Etruscan ruins, temples, old baths and the large panoramic terrace of the Logge. You'll need a good hour and a half; in the summer months it's best to book your entry slot online beforehand to skip the queue. For lunch, grab a seat at the Ristorante Torre di Baratti Bio Resort, which only uses organic and zero-mile produce, with a view of the sea (it's located on the road between Populonia and the bay).
Afternoon
In the afternoon, the destination is Cala Buca delle Fate. Leave the car at the dirt track in the locality of Il Reciso, one kilometre before the village. Take the CAI 301 trail. It's a steep 20-25 minute descent. Wear proper shoes with a good grip: you will hurt yourself in flip-flops. The cove is rocky, wild and there's nowhere to buy a drink, so bring water. If instead of a single little cove you prefer to walk, you can join the Sentiero dei Cavalleggeri (verso Fosso alle Canne), which cuts through the Mediterranean scrub all the way to Piombino.
Evening
Wrap up the weekend down by the sea. The Ristorante Canessa, right on the piers of Baratti, is a historic classic for fresh fish. If you then want to get a good night's sleep lulled by the waves, upstairs they have the Canessa Camere.
Tips to get better organised
- To get between the village at the top, the bay and the hinterland you absolutely need a car. In the height of summer, the coastal car parks and the one in Populonia Alta charge expensive hourly rates. If you go in high season, take advantage of the shuttle service to avoid stress.
- The right order for the morning is San Cerbone first and then the trek in the woods (Necropoli delle Grotte), keeping in mind that the last access to the woods is well before closing time.
- If you plan to visit both the Acropoli and the Necropoli (or the museums in the area), don't buy single tickets: ask at the ticket office for the pArcheoCARD. You pay full price for the first one and half price for the subsequent ones.
- Watch your feet: flip-flops are dangerous for going down to Buca delle Fate. You need proper hiking or non-slip shoes. Down there you can't buy anything, you must bring your own water.
Where to spend the night
An ancient farmhouse transformed into an organic resort, hidden along the road that climbs from Baratti to Populonia Alta.
View on Booking →Rooms that look straight out to sea, comfortably located above the bay's small marina.
View on Booking →Rustic apartments with a garden and pool immersed in the green countryside, a short distance from the station.
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