Southern Toscana calls for a slow pace. The roads linking the coast to inland villages are scenic but winding, and travelling just 20 km can easily take 40 minutes behind the wheel. Planning a long weekend here means calibrating distances carefully so you do not spend your entire day driving.
To visit Maremma toscana, aim for May, June, or September. During these months, crowds on the paths heading down to the coves drop dramatically, temperatures allow you to enjoy the sea without wilting, and you dodge peak-summer surcharges, making the most of both the coast and the inland thermal springs.
Day-by-day itinerary
Day 1 — Monte Argentario and its coves
Morning
Your first day focuses on the western side of the promontory. Set off early to reach Cala del Gesso, along the Strada Panoramica. The walk down follows a steep 800-metre path; as it is a free pebble beach with no facilities whatsoever, bring plenty of water and wear sturdy closed shoes for the trek. Not far away lies Cala Grande, a wide inlet divided into several rocky coves, reached via a shorter 500-metre walk from the coastal road. The seabed here is ideal for snorkelling.
Afternoon
After a morning by the sea, head towards the main settlement in the northern part of the promontory. Porto Santo Stefano e Fortezza Spagnola make for a lovely stroll along the quaysides. This seafaring village grew up around its harbour and is dominated by the 16th-century fortress. Allow about an hour and a half to tour the fortress and explore the historic centre.
Evening
Stay local for dinner at Osteria Enoteca La Pace, looking out over the village's main square. It features a panoramic terrace and serves seasonal seafood dishes typical of Argentario, paired with a well-stocked wine cellar.
Day 2 — The lagoon and tomboli of Orbetello
Morning
Spend the morning of day two exploring Tombolo della Feniglia, the southern sandspit connecting Argentario to the mainland. Spiaggia e Duna della Feniglia is sheltered by a long coastal pinewood populated by fallow deer. Access is completely free and requires no booking; exploring on foot or by hiring a bicycle takes around two to three hours.
Afternoon
Head towards the town centre to visit Oasi WWF Laguna di Orbetello (Laguna di Ponente), a wetland renowned for birdwatching where you can spot flamingos and herons. Exploring independently along the trails or with a guide takes on average two hours. For a relaxed lunch without rigid schedules, Centro Degustazione I Pescatori sits right over the lagoon waters along Via G. Leopardi: it is a cooperative ittiturismo where you dine by ticketed turns with no reservations, serving smoked anguilla and local bottarga. Spend the rest of the afternoon on Spiaggia della Giannella, the northern spit, featuring shallow, sandy waters perfect for unwinding.
Evening
At sunset, the best vantage point is Laguna di Orbetello e Mulino Spagnolo. The lagoon reflects the evening light, and the 16th-century windmill surrounded by water is exceptionally photogenic. Afterwards, head south to round off the day: wander the fortifications and alleys of Porto Ercole e Forte Stella, then sit down for dinner at Ristorante Il Gambero Rosso, set right on the marina's waterfront and celebrated for its crudités and fresh local catch.
Day 3 — Parco dell'Uccellina and Castiglione
Morning
Day three kicks off in Alberese. Visit Parco Naturale della Maremma (Uccellina) in the morning to make the most of the cooler temperatures. The route through woodlands, Mediterranean scrub, and historic landmarks like Torre di Castelmarino usually takes three to four hours; buy your tickets directly at the visitor centre. Afterwards, make your way to Spiaggia di Marina di Alberese, a wild stretch of sand scattered with driftwood washed up by the tides.
Afternoon
Head north to Castiglione della Pescaia to explore Riserva Naturale Diaccia Botrona e Casa Rossa Ximenes, a wetland preserving the remnants of ancient Lake Prile. You can explore the reserve on foot, by bike, or on a small boat tour departing right from the historic Casa Rossa building.
Evening
Spend the evening in Borgo Medievale e Castello di Castiglione della Pescaia. The fortified old town perches high above the sea, offering cobbled alleys and terraces with views across the Tuscan archipelago. For dinner, head just outside town to Casa Mora by Spiaggia di Ponente: Ristorante Maremma Sans Souci is nestled in the coastal pinewood and serves traditional Maremma specialities.
Day 4 — Thermal waters and inland villages
Morning
Your final day takes you away from the coast. Cascate del Mulino di Saturnia (in the municipality of Manciano) are open 24/7 with free entry, featuring sulphurous thermal waters bubbling up at 37.5°C. Arriving early helps secure a spot in the limestone pools before they fill up. Next, head over to Borgo di Pitigliano e Vie Cave, a town carved entirely out of a tuff cliff and surrounded by ancient Etruscan pathways cut into the rock. Seeing both the town and the Vie Cave properly takes about half a day.
Afternoon
Head south again towards Capalbio. In Garavicchio, stop at Giardino dei Tarocchi, the monumental sculpture park created by Niki de Saint Phalle. Booking your ticket online well ahead is strongly recommended; wandering among the 22 colossal sculptures made of ceramics and mirrors takes roughly two hours. Afterwards, call in at Borgo di Capalbio: the fortress features double walls and a walkable patrol path that commands vast views over the coastline.
Evening
Wrap up your trip by heading back towards the coastal hubs depending on your travel plans, making the most of the cafes and eateries around the squares of the villages visited during the afternoon.
Good to know before you go
- If travelling by camper van, note that wild camping is strictly forbidden and fined throughout Argentario, Orbetello, and Parco della Maremma. Use designated sites such as Da Renzo or Parco Sosta Lanini in Santa Liberata, then get around by shuttle bus or bicycle.
- To reach Spiaggia di Marina di Alberese, the car park near the sea is barrier-controlled and has limited spaces reserved exclusively for cars. Leave your vehicle at the Alberese Visitor Centre and take the park shuttle bus, or hire a bicycle to ride along the cycle path.
- If you plan to visit Giardino dei Tarocchi during peak travel months, booking your timed-entry ticket online well in advance is essential.
Where to stay
A short walk from the marina, making it easy to stroll among the quayside bars and restaurants in the evening.
View on Booking →Set in town, perfectly placed for arranging bicycle rides or boat excursions around the promontory.
View on Booking →A central base close to the lagoon, ideal for quick access to both sandspits and Argentario.
View on Booking →