The upper Valle del Gran San Bernardo shifts gears between early December and Epiphany, when temperatures drop below zero and villages fill up for the festive markets. Organising a weekend in Saint-Rhémy-en-Bosses during this period requires some planning for travel and bookings, especially if you want to combine skiing with cultural visits without spending your days in queues.
Your base is located at over 1,600 metres of altitude. To move between the various municipalities in the valley, a car is essential: between mid-October and April, the law requires winter tyres or snow chains on board, ready to fit quickly in case of sudden snowfall. Distances are short anyway, with the nearby municipality of Saint-Oyen just a five-minute drive away on the SS27 and the city of Aosta reachable in about twenty-five minutes.
One detail to sort out before you leave is your meals. Local accommodation and dining options are limited compared to other areas in the Valle d'Aosta, and the most traditional spots run at full capacity. Whether you want to dine on fondue or secure a table in high-altitude mountain huts or hotel restaurants, such as at the Hotel Des Alpes, it's always best to book your spot a few days in advance.
How to structure your two days
Day 1 — The ancient village, high-altitude raw ham, and castle lights
Morning
Your morning starts at the Borgo storico di Saint-Rhémy e Lavatoio Antico. This alpine settlement developed along the route of the Via Francigena: walking among the stone and wood mountain architecture, you'll come across the Chez-Vuillen stronghold and the ancient fountain bearing the coat of arms of the Counts Savin of Bosses. From here, it's worth moving on to visit the Stabilimento del Prosciuttificio De Bosses, the place where the Vallée d'Aoste Jambon de Bosses DOP is produced, cured at 1,600 metres using mountain herbs. A guided tour of the curing rooms must be arranged and booked in advance. For lunch, the Ristorante Hotel Des Alpes in Cuchepache is open from 12:00 to 14:30: its rustic dining room with a stone fireplace offers boards of mocetta and hot Jambon de Bosses rolls.
Afternoon
In the early afternoon, head down the SS27 for ten minutes to reach the Borgo medievale e Museo a cielo aperto di Étroubles. The pedestrian streets of this municipality, listed among the most beautiful villages in Italy, host the permanent contemporary art trail 'À Étroubles avant toi sont passés'. After your walk among the artworks, return to the Bosses hamlet for the opening of the Castello di Bosses e Mercatino Natalizio 'Les Petits Marchés'. On December weekends, the fifteenth-century manor opens its doors from 14:30 to 19:30: the stalls display local wooden and stone crafts, alongside themed decorations.
Evening
For dinner, the Prosciutteria Sous le pont de Bosses in the Predumaz Falcoz hamlet serves boards of DOP cured meats and local cheeses. If you want to order traditional hot alpine dishes, such as raclette, fondue fromage, or fondue bourguignonne, it is mandatory to request them when booking your table.
Day 2 — Sunny snow and crafts in Aosta
Morning
Your second day makes the most of the valley's south-facing slopes. Skiers can head to the Comprensorio Sciistico Crévacol, open from 08:45 to 16:30. The alpine skiing and snowboarding slopes, as well as the panoramic snowshoe trails, are often far from the crowds of the large neighbouring ski resorts. The alternative for cross-country skiing is a five-minute drive away, at the Snow Park e Piste da Fondo di Flassin in Saint-Oyen: a 5-hectare area with snow tubes and sledges, from which an 18 km track runs through the woods. For your midday break, the Ristorante Alpe Arp du Jeu offers a terrace at 1,900 metres of altitude, directly overlooking the Crévacol slopes.
Afternoon
After making the most of the final hours of sunshine on the snow, pick up your car and drive down to the valley floor. Your destination is Aosta, about twenty-five minutes away, for the Marché Vert Noël set up in Piazza Chanoux. This is a large alpine village made up of 30-40 wooden chalets selling vin brulé and Valle d'Aosta handicrafts. The site is open from 10:00 to 20:00, and a visit generally takes between an hour and two hours.
Evening
To avoid queues and complicated return trips, you can head back to the upper valley for dinner. The Brasserie du Saint Bernard, located on Rue del Grand Saint Bernard in Saint-Oyen, features alpine-style dining rooms and panoramic terraces where you can taste more Valle d'Aosta recipes just a few minutes' drive from the main town of Saint-Rhémy-en-Bosses.
Practical tips for getting organised
- Aosta timings: The Marché Vert Noël in Piazza Chanoux sees peak attendance at weekends. To visit without struggling to move between the wooden chalets, it is best to plan your arrival for early morning or, if travelling on weekdays, at dusk when the lights come on.
- Temperatures and clothing: Between December and January, temperatures regularly drop below zero, thanks to the altitude. It is essential to wear buildable thermal layers and insulated, waterproof mountain footwear.
- Managing dinners: Most traditional venues in the area strictly require bookings for dinner. This is especially true for high-altitude mountain huts like those at Crévacol or places that prepare fondue and raclette.
- Driving: From Saint-Rhémy, you can drive to the nearby Saint-Oyen and Étroubles in about 5-10 minutes following the SS27 state road.
Where to stay in the area
Mountain-style hotel located in Cuchepache at an altitude of 1,650 metres, with an in-house restaurant.
View on Booking →Accommodation located in the town centre, useful for those looking to be close to the Crévacol slopes.
View on Booking →A family-run alpine hotel, located just a few minutes' drive from the ski lifts.
View on Booking →