Organising a weekend in Genova requires a little planning so you do not waste your energy. The city is built vertically, and using a car between the historic centre and the hills is completely pointless. The best time to combine seaside strolls with hill trekking is from April to early June and from late September to late October. During these months you will avoid the summer heat on the ridges, which offer no shade, as well as the heavy rains of late autumn.
Getting around on vertical public transport will save you precious hours. Lifts and funiculars whisk you up to the scenic ridges in under twenty minutes, bypassing the traffic entirely. If you are arriving by campervan, steer clear of the central caruggi for parking and head instead for designated areas such as Pons Caravan, linked to the centre by buses 16 and 17, or Marina Park in Via della Marina.
Your choice of base is strategic. If you opt for the centre, the Grand Hotel Savoia in the Principe area or the Hotel Bristol Palace near Piazza De Ferrari keep the transport network right on your doorstep. If you are travelling in a campervan or prefer to stay clear of city traffic, Caravan Park La Vesima and the campsite in Bogliasco offer great alternatives for heading into the centre later.
The day-by-day plan
Day 1 — From the centre to the Porto Antico
Morning
Day one starts from Piazza De Ferrari, the city's central hub dominated by its bronze fountain, the Teatro Carlo Felice and the Palazzo della Borsa. A short walk away stands Palazzo Ducale, the former seat of the doge, with its monumental courtyards and the historic prisons of the Torre Grimaldina. Weaving through the maze of narrow alleys brings you to the Cattedrale di San Lorenzo, notable for its black-and-white striped Gothic façade and carved lions. Visiting the interior, home to the chapel of San Giovanni Battista, takes around 45 minutes. For lunch, Trattoria Da Maria in Vico Testadoro (Centro Storico) serves trenette al pesto and minestrone at wallet-friendly prices in no-frills surroundings.
Afternoon
After lunch, head down towards the sea. The Porto Antico di Genova is a vast area redeveloped by Renzo Piano, perfect for strolling along the waterfront as far as the Marina, taking in the Bigo and the Biosfera. Here you will find the Acquario di Genova, Italy's largest. You will need about two and a half hours to tour it, but booking your timed-entry ticket online in advance is strongly recommended: on weekends, queues at the ticket desk often exceed an hour and on-the-day slots sell out fast.
Evening
Heading back towards the Prè area in the Centro Storico, Via del Campo 29 Rosso is well worth a 45-minute stop. This museum space is dedicated to the Genoese singer-songwriter tradition, displaying historic memorabilia alongside Fabrizio De André's original guitars. To wrap up the day, drop by the bakery Focaccia e Dintorni in Via di Canneto il Curto, which pulls warm Ligurian savoury pies and hot focaccia straight from the oven continuously until late.
Day 2 — Historic palaces and seaside villages
Morning
The morning is dedicated to the Musei di Strada Nuova along Via Garibaldi, a museum complex bringing together Palazzo Rosso, Palazzo Bianco and Palazzo Tursi. Visiting these Palazzi dei Rolli takes a good two hours, and if your trip falls on a weekend, it is best to book your entry slots. From Piazza Portello, hop on the nearby Art Nouveau lift to reach Spianata Castelletto (Belvedere Luigi Montaldo) in just a few minutes. The terrace offers a 360-degree view over slate rooftops, bell towers and the harbour. Before heading back down, a stop at Panificio Le Bontà del Grano in nearby Piazza del Carmine sorts lunch out with a slice of crisp fugassa.
Afternoon
Head back to the Porto Antico to round off your maritime explorations at the Galata Museo del Mare e Sommergibile Nazario Sauro. In two hours, you can tour the largest maritime museum in the Mediterranean and step inside the real submarine moored in the dock. Arranging the visits in this order lets you stay indoors during the hottest hours of the day.
Evening
Late afternoon is the ideal time to head towards the Albaro neighbourhood and reach the Borgo di Boccadasse. Pastel-painted houses, pebbles and fishing boats hauled onto the shore make this historic fishing village especially lovely for a sunset aperitivo. For dinner in the area, Al Forno di Albaro (Via Albaro) holds a Slow Food endorsement for its extra virgin olive oil focaccia, its onion variety and its Recco-style version.
Day 3 — The hills and the Lanterna
Morning
To explore the hills, set off from Largo della Zecca on the Funicolare Zecca-Righi. This historic funicular takes you up to the Montallegro station on the Righi ridge. From here begins the Parco Urbano delle Mura e Anello dei Forti, a trek through nature and 17th-century military fortifications including Forte Sperone, Begato, Puin and Diamante. The hike takes between three and five hours depending on your chosen route. Wear hiking boots with good grip and avoid the area for 48 hours after heavy rain due to thick, slippery mud.
Afternoon
Once back in the centre and recharged, make your way towards Sampierdarena to visit La Lanterna di Genova. The city's iconic symbol perches on a rocky outcrop 177 metres above the sea. The visit includes the fortifications museum and a long promenade with steps leading up to the panoramic terrace.
Evening
Dinner on day three is back in the Centro Storico. Antica Trattoria Sà Pesta, a historic shop running since the 19th century, specialises in wood-fired farinata and classic savoury pies made with prescinseua.
Day 4 — Monumental sculptures and mountain streams
Morning
The first part of the day takes you to the Staglieno district to explore the Cimitero Monumentale di Staglieno. Far more than a cemetery, it is a vast open-air museum of 19th-century sculpture, where figures such as Giuseppe Mazzini and Fabrizio De André are laid to rest. A walk along its tree-lined avenues takes around an hour and a half.
Afternoon
In the afternoon, head towards the eastern side of the city. In Nervi, follow the mountain valley up for a walk to the Laghetti di Nervi. Heading up the stream, you will come across emerald-coloured pools, such as the Lago delle Oche. The trail takes roughly two hours and, once again, requires hiking boots or shoes you do not mind getting wet. Before leaving the centre, stop by Focaccia e Dintorni again or nearby Panificio Le Bontà del Grano to pack a picnic lunch.
Evening
Bring your journey to a close along the Passeggiata Anita Garibaldi e Parchi di Nervi. This clifftop coastal path runs alongside the neighbourhood's sprawling parks and museums, offering the loveliest light right at sunset.
Tips for organising transport
- Buying the Genova Museum Card (valid for 24 or 48 hours) is well worth it if you are exploring the centre: alongside admission to civic museums like Palazzo Rosso and Bianco, it includes free travel on the entire AMT network, including funiculars and lifts.
- Leave the car outside the centre. Taking the Funicolare Zecca-Righi and the lift up to Spianata Castelletto allows you to tackle the city's steep hills in fifteen minutes, completely doing away with parking hassles and traffic jams.
- You will need proper hiking boots for the trails in Parco delle Mura and up to Laghetti di Nervi. The paths turn remarkably slippery after storms, so avoid them for two days following heavy downpours.
- If you are touring in a campervan and want to stay in the city, make for the dedicated Pons Caravan site in Nervi (linked by local buses) or Marina Park in the centre, steering well clear of the narrow alleys in the old town.
Where to base yourself for the night
A historic five-star hotel strategically set right opposite Piazza Principe station.
View on Booking →An elegant Art Nouveau hotel located just moments from Piazza De Ferrari, perfect for getting around on foot.
View on Booking →A western coastline campsite equipped for campervans and tents, with direct access from Via Aurelia.
View on Booking →