Liguria is a narrow strip of land wedged between the sea and the mountains, where colourful villages cling to the cliffs. This weekend focuses on two of its most famous coastal stretches: the area around Portovenere and Golfo Paradiso with Camogli. The best time to plan a trip here is during the shoulder seasons (April–May or September–October). You will avoid the heavy summer crowds in the narrow alleyways and the weather is mild, perfect for walking the footpaths and taking in the views without the stifling heat.
The itinerary takes you to clifftop churches overlooking the waves, historic fortresses and secluded abbeys, without missing out on traditional dishes. Make sure to pack comfortable shoes and stay flexible with your travel plans, as a car is often more of a hindrance than a convenience in this part of the region.
2-day itinerary in Liguria
Day 1 — Portovenere and Isola Palmaria
Morning
Your first morning is dedicated to Portovenere. Leave your car in La Spezia (parking in the village is scarce and expensive) and take the 11/P bus or the ferry. Start by exploring La Palazzata a Mare e Carugio Storico along Via Capellini: a row of colourful tower-houses concealing a narrow medieval alley packed with shops and focaccerie. From here, walk up towards the rocky headland to visit Chiesa di San Pietro, a Genoese-Gothic building with black-and-white stripes perched right above the sea (free entry, allow 30–45 minutes for the visit, open 9:30–12:30). Beneath the church lies Grotta di Byron (Grotta Arpaia), a rocky inlet linked to the Romantic poet. Finally, spend about an hour visiting Castello Doria di Portovenere, a stone fortress that towers over the village and offers sweeping views across Golfo dei Poeti.
Afternoon
For lunch, head to Piazza Bastreri and stop at Trattoria Le Tre Torri, a family-run spot serving fresh seafood right by the entrance to the historic centre. In the afternoon, catch the ferry over to Isola Palmaria, sitting directly opposite Portovenere. It is an unspoilt island ideal for walks through Mediterranean scrub and quiet coves, offering wonderful views back towards the village. Remember to wear walking shoes if you tackle the trails, as the rocky ground can be slippery.
Evening
Back in Portovenere, have dinner at Antica Osteria del Carugio (on Via Capellini), a traditional trattoria in the historic centre where you can sample Ligurian seafood dishes. If you are staying in the area overnight, you can book a room at Grand Hotel Portovenere or the guesthouse L'Ancora, both right on the seafront.
Day 2 — Camogli and San Fruttuoso
Morning
Head over to Camogli, which is easily reached by train. This coastal village is famed for its Porticciolo e Palazzata di Camogli, lined with pastel-hued buildings along the seafront promenade of Lungomare Garibaldi. Just steps from the marina, perched on a rocky spur above the sea, you will find Basilica di Santa Maria Assunta e Castello della Dragonara; allow around an hour to explore the area. From Camogli, take the Golfo Paradiso ferry to the bay of San Fruttuoso to visit Abbazia di San Fruttuoso di Capodimonte, a FAI-managed Benedictine complex right on the beach, reachable only by boat or on foot. On summer weekends, it is best to book your entry online in advance.
Afternoon
For lunch in San Fruttuoso, try Ristorante Da Giovanni, which features a panoramic terrace overlooking the bay, traditional dishes and rooms (Da Giovanni). You can also take the boat from Camogli (or hike the footpath) to reach Punta Chiappa, a rocky headland in Parco di Portofino that makes a perfect scenic viewpoint and seaside break.
Evening
Back in Camogli, stroll along Via Garibaldi and dine at La Camogliese, a restaurant with an outdoor terrace on the pedestrian seafront, renowned for its catch of the day. Alternatively, on Via Nicolò Cuneo you will find Ristorante Il Doge, inside Hotel Cenobio dei Dogi, boasting large picture windows looking out over the gulf.
Tips for planning your weekend
- For San Fruttuoso and Palmaria, ferries are the main way to get around (Golfo Paradiso from Camogli, ferries from Portovenere): always check sea conditions before setting off.
- Driving is a headache in both Portovenere and Camogli: parking is very limited and costly. Reach Portovenere from La Spezia by bus or boat; for Camogli, take the train.
- If you plan to walk the paths on Palmaria or around the Portofino headland, proper walking shoes are essential for the rocky, damp sections.
- At restaurants in the caruggi and those with sea views, booking a table for dinner is almost essential at weekends.
Where to stay
Set in a 17th-century former convent on the seafront, offering views over Isola Palmaria.
View on Booking →An elegant hotel on the village seafront, with direct access to the rocky shore.
View on Booking →An inn with guest rooms looking straight out over the cove of San Fruttuoso.
View on Booking →