Planning a trip to Liguria takes a little forethought, especially if you want to explore the coastal villages without getting stuck in traffic. The region's roads are narrow and winding, making driving—and particularly touring in a camper van—slow and tricky. Free parking in seaside towns is virtually impossible. The most effective way to travel between Genova, the Golfo Paradiso and the Tigullio is by regional train: stations are right in the historic centres, completely eliminating parking headaches.
The ideal period for mild weather, perfect for both coastal hikes and the beach, runs from April to May and September to October. Visiting during these windows lets you dodge the summer mugginess and crowds, enjoying optimal temperatures for walking. If you plan to tackle the cliffside footpaths over the sea, proper hiking shoes with deep-tread soles are non-negotiable: many routes feature steep inclines and stony surfaces that are treacherous in ordinary trainers.
This guide focuses on the eastern coast (the Riviera di Levante), starting from the regional capital and winding down to sandy bays. It is an itinerary that combines city strolls, ferry crossings and fishing villages, designed to streamline travel times and keep driving to an absolute minimum.
The weekend plan: day by day
Day 1 — From Genova to the sea
Morning
Your first stop begins at the Porto Antico in Genova with the Acquario di Genova. Allow around two to three hours to explore the pavilions housing dozens of marine tanks, as this is the largest aquarium of its kind in Europe. It is wise to book a timed-entry ticket online a few days ahead to guarantee your slot and bypass the ticket-office queues, which build up quickly on weekend mornings.
Afternoon
After leaving the aquarium, head into the Centro Storico to spend the afternoon exploring the Palazzi dei Rolli (Via Garibaldi). These Renaissance and Baroque noble residences, recognised as a UNESCO World Heritage site, are best discovered by wandering through monumental courtyards and art museums set within the historic palaces. The pedestrianised area makes it easy to stroll smoothly from one building to the next.
Evening
Before sunset, travel down to Nervi to walk the Passeggiata Anita Garibaldi e Parchi di Nervi, a 2 km pedestrian promenade hugging the sea cliffs. From here, make your way to the Borgo marinaro di Boccadasse, a fishing hamlet nestled between rocky shores and pastel-coloured houses, especially popular in the late afternoon for an aperitivo. For dinner, GE8317 - Ittiturismo Boccadasse serves the day's catch cooked to order right on the little beach; booking well ahead is essential given the venue's limited seating.
Day 2 — Golfo Paradiso and Tigullio by ferry
Morning
Hop on the train to reach the Golfo Paradiso and the Borgo marinaro di Camogli, famous for its tall, colourful houses overlooking the small harbour and pebble beach. Allow two to three hours to wander around at an unhurried pace. Before moving on, drop by Focacceria Pasticceria Revello, a historic bakery on the seafront, to pick up a slice of hot focaccia al formaggio or local camogliesi pastries. From Camogli, board the ferry (or tackle the hike through the Parco di Portofino) to reach the Abbazia di San Fruttuoso di Capodimonte, an isolated medieval abbey set in a secluded cove that can only be reached by sea or on foot.
Afternoon
Back on the ferry, continue your cruise towards Portofino. From the village's famous piazzetta, walk up following the signs for the Castello Brown e Piazzetta di Portofino; the historic fortress offers sweeping views across the Golfo del Tigullio. Arriving by sea lets you bypass the local car parks, which fill up fast on summer weekends and at peak hours, charging very steep rates.
Evening
For dinner, head to Recco, just a few minutes away by train. Here you will find the restaurant Manuelina, open since 1885 and celebrated for its authentic focaccia col formaggio di Recco IGP alongside refined Ligurian specialities. Once dinner is over, the nearby railway station ensures a quick, effortless journey back to base.
Day 3 — Rapallo and the bays of Sestri
Morning
The day begins in Rapallo. From the town centre, walk down to the seafront to admire the Castello sul Mare e funivia di Montallegro. After viewing the sixteenth-century fortress set right on the water, take the cable car for an easy ride up to the Santuario, where you can take in panoramic views stretching across the entire gulf from the top of the hill.
Afternoon
For lunch, stay on the Lungomare Vittorio Veneto in Rapallo at Ristorante Papisca, which offers seafood dishes and classic Ligurian recipes such as Genovese minestrone and trofie al pesto. Straight after, catch the train towards Sestri Levante. The town's historic centre sits on a sandy isthmus flanked by the Baia del Silenzio e Baia delle Favole, two sheltered inlets where you can spend the rest of the afternoon relaxing or walking along the sand.
Evening
Staying in Sestri Levante to wrap up the weekend, wander down the main caruggio along Via XXV Aprile for dinner at Trattoria da Turin. It is a traditional spot dedicated to authentic Ligurian and Genovese cuisine, with a rustic setting and an unhurried pace.
Practical tips for your trip
- To get between Genova, the Golfo Paradiso and the Tigullio, rely on regional trains: stations are located right in the historic centres, completely cutting out the hassle of coastal parking.
- If you are travelling by camper van, bear in mind that wild camping is banned in seaside resorts and roads are very narrow. It is best to set up base at an equipped campsite and carry on by train or ferry.
- Avoid driving to Portofino on summer weekends: car parks are pricey and fill up early. Instead, take the scheduled ferries departing from Rapallo or Santa Margherita Ligure.
- On coastal trails such as those in the Parco di Portofino, wear hiking boots or shoes with deep-tread soles, as the paths are stony and feature steep gradients.
- A timed-entry ticket is essential for the Acquario di Genova, and you should also book restaurant tables well in advance to avoid missing out.
Where to stay
A beachfront campsite and holiday village offering camper-van pitches and glamping options.
View on Booking →A luxury hotel set right in the heart of the renowned coastal village.
View on Booking →A campsite immersed in the greenery of the Val Nervia, featuring glamping options for exploring the inland valleys.
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