Planning a weekend in Liguria calls for a bit of forward planning when it comes to travel times and visitor numbers. The stretch of coastline running from the Riviera di Levante right up to the Genova area is packed with steep hillsides, fishing villages, and scenic hiking trails. The best time to visit is during the spring months, between April and May, or in early autumn, between September and October. During these weeks, the weather is ideal for walking, and you will dodge both the peak summer crowds and the intense heat on trails overlooking the sea.
The lay of the land makes driving impractical in many areas, particularly in the villages clinging to the cliffs. It pays to organise your weekend around a strategic base, combining regional train journeys with walking routes, and timing your morning sightseeing early to beat the larger tour groups.
Three-day itinerary on the Ligurian coast
Day 1 — The villages of the Cinque Terre
Morning
Your day begins in Monterosso al Mare, the largest village in the Cinque Terre, where it is best to arrive early in the morning before the crowds descend, allowing you to enjoy the calm of Spiaggia di Fegina. From here, hop on the Cinque Terre Express regional train, which connects the villages in around 4-5 minutes per journey, heading towards Vernazza and Castello Doria. Allow about two hours to explore this iconic fishing village, taking advantage of the morning hours to admire the medieval tower overlooking the small harbour. For lunch, stop at Ristorante Belforte, set inside an ancient medieval tower perched directly above the marina in Vernazza, which serves dishes based on the local Ligurian catch. Booking ahead here is strongly recommended.
Afternoon
In the early afternoon, take the train down to Riomaggiore and Via dell'Amore. This picturesque village marks the eastern gateway to the Cinque Terre, boasting a panoramic marina and access to the famous cliffside coastal path. After wandering around the little harbour, a short ride brings you to Manarola, famous for its colourful tower-houses clinging to the rock face. The best time to visit this village is in the late afternoon.
Evening
Staying on in Manarola, the plan for the evening is to catch the sunset from Punta Bonfiglio. Before dinner, stop by Nessun Dorma, a scenic open-air terrace wine bar renowned for its bruschette, sharing platters, and local wine. Entry is strictly managed through a virtual queue via their proprietary app, which you should join around 30 minutes in advance. For dinner proper, head up to the upper part of the village to Trattoria dal Billy. This historic trattoria looks out over terraced vineyards and the sea, serving a mixed fresh seafood antipasto and homemade pasta; advance booking is essential.
Day 2 — The Golfo dei Poeti and Val di Magra
Morning
Moving into the Golfo dei Poeti, your main destination is Portovenere. Aim to arrive by 09:45 to find parking easily and visit Portovenere e Chiesa di San Pietro in peace—this ancient Romanesque-Gothic church set on a rocky outcrop sheer above the sea takes about an hour to see. At the foot of the cliff lies the Grotta di Byron, a natural rocky inlet with stunning coastal views. From 10:00 (in summer), you can enter Castello Doria di Portovenere, an imposing Genoese military fortress with panoramic terraces overlooking the gulf; allow roughly an hour here too.
Afternoon
After having lunch around the harbour, spend the afternoon heading inland into the Val di Magra towards Sarzana. The drive is straightforward, leaving the coast behind to discover a historic town setting with a distinctly continental feel.
Evening
Spend the evening exploring the Centro Storico di Sarzana, a historic centre brimming with medieval alleys, artisan workshops, and small squares ideal for a relaxed stroll. For dinner, head to Osteria del Monsignore, also within the old town. Set inside an 18th-century palazzo, it serves traditional Ligurian dishes, hearty meat courses, rabbit, and homemade pasta at very fair prices.
Day 3 — From Sestri Levante to Genova
Morning
You will need comfortable walking shoes this morning for the Sentiero di Punta Manara in Sestri Levante. It is a scenic circular trail winding through pine and holm oak woods with sweeping views over the coast below; the route is about 7.5 km long and takes around two and a half hours on average. Once you make your way down, recharge your batteries at the Baia del Silenzio, a sheltered cove framed by pastel-hued houses and fine sand, where you can easily spend an hour or two relaxing.
Afternoon
Heading towards the regional capital, make your way to Genova Nervi. Here you have two great options depending on your mood: take a stroll along the Passeggiata Anita Garibaldi e Parchi di Nervi, a 2 km clifftop coastal promenade linked to historic landscaped gardens (takes 1-2 hours, no booking needed). Alternatively, head up towards the Apennines to reach the Laghetti di Nervi (Rio Garega), a natural beauty spot with clear freshwater pools reached via an easy 1-2 hour walk.
Evening
To wrap up the weekend, head to Genova Acquasanta to unwind at the Terme di Genova. This historic thermal spa complex features beneficial sulphurous waters, indoor and outdoor pools, and a dedicated spa area. Entry slots last 4 hours and must be booked online well in advance.
Top planning tips
- Avoid driving between the villages of the Cinque Terre due to the extremely narrow roads and lack of parking. The smartest base is La Spezia or Levanto: leave your car in their car parks and take the regional train, which connects the villages in just a few minutes.
- To keep travel and entry costs down, pick up a Cinque Terre Card. It covers unlimited train travel between Levanto and La Spezia, as well as paid access to the footpaths within the National Park.
- If you are touring in a campervan, plan your overnight stops well in advance: spaces in Portovenere are very scarce and you will need to claim a spot at dawn in the upper car parks. For the Cinque Terre, rely on Area Camper La Spezia or the Palaspezia car park, continuing by rail or ferry.
- If driving to Portovenere by car, aim to arrive before 09:30 to find a free space. The parking areas closest to the centre charge €3.00 per hour, while those slightly further out start from €2.50.
- Several spots manage access strictly: the Terme di Genova in Acquasanta requires advance online booking for timed slots, while getting a table at Nessun Dorma in Manarola means joining their digital queue via their app, as traditional reservations are not accepted.
Where to stay
Perched on the hillside, it boasts panoramic views over both of the town's bays, making it ideal for couples.
View on Booking →A boutique hotel set inside a 16th-century tower, offering an atmospheric, characterful stay right in the village.
View on Booking →A guesthouse featuring double rooms and a panoramic terrace, woven right into the heart of the village.
View on Booking →