There is a different rhythm when you follow the water's edge. Days in Lombardia around the lake are measured by the glint of sunlight, the crunch of footsteps along hillside trails, and the quiet elegance of historic gardens.
To enjoy this charm without the crowds, aim for spring, between April and June, when the flowers are in bloom, or September and October, when autumn foliage paints the woods and the humid heat fades. July and August tend to bring heavy crowds and hot weather on exposed paths.
Hopping from one landing stage to another, admiring the lakeside villages from the water, gives you a privileged vantage point and lets you savour every corner at an unhurried pace.
How to plan two days on the Lario
Day 1 — Amidst elegant gardens and the alleys of Varenna
Morning
The day begins on the western shore, in Tremezzina. It pays to arrive early to enjoy the calm of Villa Carlotta, which takes an hour and a half to two hours to explore thoroughly, between its monumental botanical park and works of art. From here, head just a little further south towards Lenno to visit Villa del Balbianello. Its terraced gardens overlooking the lake are extraordinary; allow one to two hours, and booking in advance is strongly recommended, especially for Saturdays and Sundays. If you are looking for somewhere nearby, Crotto dei Pescatori in Lezzeno (località Casate) features a covered terrace directly over the water, serving freshwater specialities like pike-perch.
Afternoon
In the afternoon, cross over to the opposite shore. From Varenna, a steep 25 to 30-minute uphill walk leads to Castello di Vezio, perched between Perledo and Varenna. This ancient medieval outpost boasts panoramic terraces overlooking the central lake, set amongst eerie plaster sculptures; allow an hour for your visit. Walking back down into the centre of Varenna, late afternoon is the ideal time to stroll along the Passeggiata degli Innamorati, an arched walkway clinging to the rock right above the water, which connects the ferry dock to the village's historic heart in an easy 20 to 30-minute walk.
Evening
For dinner in Varenna, in the hamlet of Fiumelatte, Hosteria del Platano serves traditional Lario cuisine such as agoni and lavarello, best enjoyed on its lake-view terrace. At the end of the evening, convenient bases include Hotel Royal Victoria on the main square or the nearby Hotel Villa Cipressi, by R Collection Hotels.
Day 2 — Mid-slope trails and medieval villages
Morning
The morning is dedicated to walking along the eastern shore of Lago di Como. The classic section of the Sentiero del Viandante, from Lierna to Varenna, takes around 3 to 4 hours along the hillside with sweeping views across the lake. It is a route that requires proper hiking shoes. If the full walk feels too long, an excellent alternative further north in Dervio is the Borgo Medievale di Corenno Plinio, known as the 'village of a thousand steps', crossed by the trail's fourth stage and easily explored in about an hour. For lunch nearby, heading up into Bellano (località Oro), Trattoria Ca' Oro serves polenta taragna and brasato on a scenic terrace.
Afternoon
If you choose the western shore, the Greenway del Lago di Como offers an easy, scenic afternoon walk from Colonno to Griante. The full 10 km route winds through olive groves and historic hamlets in around 3 hours, though it can easily be tackled in shorter stretches. Later in the afternoon, head down to Como, where the Funicolare Como-Brunate whisks you up in 7 minutes to the 'Balcony of the Alps', rounding off the day with a sweeping panorama over Como's southern basin.
Evening
Heading back towards the central lake, Bellagio offers refined options. Ristorante Mistral inside the Grand Hotel Villa Serbelloni serves haute cuisine along the lakefront, ideal for an elegant dinner for two. If you choose to stay here, Hotel Du Lac & SPA enjoys a prime spot in Piazza Mazzini, just moments from the ferry landing.
Practical weekend tips
- To get between Bellagio, Varenna and Menaggio, use the boats and ferries run by Navigazione Laghi; it saves you dealing with coastal traffic and the nightmare of parking. The central lake day pass is the most practical choice.
- Along the Sentiero del Viandante, every stage starts and ends near a railway station on the Trenord Lecco-Colico-Sondrio line, making it easy to hike light and catch the train back.
- Tickets for Villa del Balbianello must be booked online several days in advance, especially for weekend visits.
- For a weekend on the lake, expect an average spend per person (excluding accommodation) of around €110 to €180, covering meals in local trattorie, dinners, ferry passes and villa admission fees.
Where to stay by the lake
4-star hotel in the centre, set within a terraced botanical garden over the lake.
View on Booking →Elegant waterside hotel, overlooking the central square.
View on Booking →Right in the centre, in a prime spot opposite the ferry dock.
View on Booking →