Looking for foliage in Italia doesn't necessarily mean heading to the high Alpine peaks. In the first half of October, the coppice woods of Parco del Curone fill with intense colours, transforming this part of Brianza into a visually striking autumn retreat. The hills are marked by sunny terraces where the grapes for IGT Terre Lariane wines ripen, surrounded by oaks and chestnuts that cover the paths in a thick layer of dry leaves.
The harvest and chestnut season is best experienced walking between the rural hamlets, but it requires specific care. The woods of the park are almost entirely privately owned: the Ente Parco strictly forbids leaving the marked trails. Foraging for autumn fruits is therefore limited to chestnuts that have fallen on the authorised public paths, a necessary compromise to preserve the balance of the reserve.
Organising an autumn weekend around here means dealing with narrow hill roads and heavy traffic on public holidays. Planning your travel and booking venues in advance are essential to enjoy the itinerary, which mixes damp nature trails with stops dedicated to local flavours, like the renowned fresh or aged formaggini with pepper and herbs.
How to organise four days in the park
Day 1 — Arriving in the hills and the view
Morning
The best approach to the hill starts from the bottom. Leaving your car in the valley car parks on Via del Fontanile, you join the Sentiero dell'Oliva (Sentiero n. 9). Starting from the Quattro Strade area, this steep mule track climbs towards the historic centre. The route runs alongside dry stone walls and crosses old terraces and chestnut groves, taking about an hour on foot to complete the ascent. The damp autumn air makes the ground slippery in places, but a slow pace allows you to get used to the rhythm of the place.
Afternoon
Having reached the heart of Montevecchia Alta, the urban layout opens onto Piazza Agnesi e Terrazza Panoramica. This square at the foot of the upper hill offers the clearest view over the surrounding vineyards at sunset. From here begins the staircase of about 180 steps, flanked by a Baroque-era Via Crucis, leading to the top of the Santuario della Beata Vergine del Carmelo. This building is the visual landmark of the area and guarantees a view sweeping from the Prealpi to the Pianura Padana.
Evening
For dinner, stay in the historic centre. Overlooking Largo Agnesi in Montevecchia Alta is Trattoria da Pasqualino, a historic venue with views over Brianza. The menu focuses on cucina lombarda, with a strong presence of risotti and the classic formaggini typical of the area.
Day 2 — Deep in the woods
Morning
To observe the autumn colours without too much company, you should set off early in the morning towards the Boschi di Castagni di Via del Belsedere e Val Fredda, still within the Montevecchia perimeter. As one of the most famous woodland areas in autumn due to its large chestnut groves, the early hours of the day guarantee the silence you need to walk on carpets of leaves and look for fallen fruit along the authorised public path.
Afternoon
The itinerary continues into Valle del Curone, reaching the Centro Parco Ca' del Soldato e Museo Faunistico. This ancient farmhouse has been restored and houses a small educational museum about the environments of the reserve. Taking advantage of the picnic area tables, you can take a break before resuming your walk on Sentiero n. 2. From here, a 30-45 minute hike takes you to the Sorgenti Petrificanti near Cascina Ospedaletto: small streams where the limestone in the water encrusts the mosses and fallen leaves, creating highly unique geological formations.
Evening
Heading back down towards the Ghisalba hamlet, you can book a table at Carlambroeus Bistrot on Via Alta Collina. Born as a modern inn, the venue reinterprets historic local recipes and Brianza produce in a contemporary way. If you like, you can stay overnight right here by choosing the Carlambroeus Locanda Moderna.
Day 3 — Agricultural geometries and ancient settlements
Morning
The third day begins in Località Butto at the Centro Visite di Cascina Butto. As well as being the headquarters of the Ente Parco Regionale, the venue provides educational panels on the flora and complex geology of the area, and also supplies updated maps of the trail network. To round off the morning without straying too far, Tenuta Valcurone, located on the same road, is the perfect option for a lunch based on boards of Montevecchia cold cuts and cheeses.
Afternoon
Moving towards the La Valletta Brianza area, the route becomes more undulating as it tackles the Piramidi di Montevecchia (Colline di Monte di Rovagnate). These are three anciently shaped hillocks with stepped structures and terraces, which today host a hiking trail through coppice woods and clearings. The walk then leads to the Borgo Rurale di Galbusera Nera, a historic farming settlement wedged in a very narrow valley, surrounded by rows of vines climbing the slopes.
Evening
Right inside the settlement you've just reached, you dine at Agriturismo La Costa (Ristorante Galbusera Nera). The winery uses local ingredients to offer Brianza traditions, pairing the dishes with wines produced directly on the terraces of Parco del Curone.
Day 4 — Ridges and organic oases
Morning
The ridge of Valle del Curone hosts one of the area's most famous scenic routes. The Sentiero dei Cipressi (Cima dei Cipressi) follows the line of the hill until it meets a granite altar. The presence of rows of tall trees shapes the landscape, visually recalling the hills of Toscana, with sweeping views over the surrounding slopes that, in autumn, accentuate the colour contrast between evergreens and broadleaf trees.
Afternoon
In the afternoon, the itinerary reaches the Borgo e Oasi di Galbusera Bianca, still in the La Valletta Brianza area. This old rural settlement has been entirely restored and converted into an organic oasis. The area is surrounded by well-kept apple orchards and a dense network of minor trails that allow you to end your weekend strolling through an area where architectural restoration is directly tied to the agricultural management of the land.
Evening
For the final meal of the weekend, the Oasi Galbusera Bianca Bistrot, located inside the same hamlet of Rovagnate, offers zero-mile dining. The menu makes extensive use of the farm's organic ingredients, with a strong focus on vegetarian dishes. Advance booking is strictly required to dine here.
Tips for getting around Parco del Curone
- On autumn weekends, car access to Alta Collina is strictly limited, with road closures on Saturday afternoons and Sundays. It is essential to book restaurants in advance so you can obtain any transit permits tied to temporary parking.
- To overcome the chronic lack of parking, the best solution is to leave your vehicle down in the valley, on Via degli Artigiani or Via del Fontanile. From there, it's about a 40-minute walk up. Alternatively, a shuttle bus operates on Sundays with departures every half hour from Via Belvedere. Fines for parking on meadows or along the roadside are strictly enforced.
- An excellent logistical strategy for busy days involves taking the train. The Trenord S8 Milano-Lecco line stops at Cernusco-Merate station, from which marked pedestrian routes start and connect directly to the park's trails 2 and 3, completely eliminating the car problem.
- The ground on the trails is often damp and made slippery by the limestone near the springs and the blanket of fallen leaves. Hiking boots are essential during this period. The layout of the trails makes the use of pushchairs inadvisable; baby carrier backpacks are recommended instead.
Where to stay in Montevecchia and its surroundings
A boutique hotel housed in a historic building, ideal for those looking for a well-kept base with an attached restaurant.
View on Booking →A classic restored Lombard farmhouse offering en-suite rooms in a quiet agricultural setting.
View on Booking →Accommodation situated in a panoramic position, convenient for walking to the reserve's trails.
View on Booking →