Between the eastern shores of Lago di Como and the valleys of the province of Sondrio, the landscape shifts radically in just a few kilometres, offering a stark contrast between the flat horizon of the water and the sheer verticality of the rock. From May to October, conditions are especially good for tackling the elevation gains on foot. In late spring or during September and October, when the autumn foliage arrives, you avoid the humid heat typical of the lake and can be sure of finding the high-altitude mountain huts open and running.
This itinerario in Lombardia follows the line of water: from waves lapping against the piers of lakeside villages, past the glacial streams and tarns of the Alpine valleys, to the hot spring waters harnessed since antiquity. Rather than cramming too many stops into one day, it pays to slow down, rely on the local rail network where possible, and focus on a few distinct areas, balancing physical exertion on the trails with pure relaxation.
No extreme athletic training is required, but you will need a willingness to walk on uneven ground and a sensible approach to travel logistics, bearing in mind the driving distances between the lake and the high valley. Your days will be filled with stony mule tracks, pale granite cliffs, polenta simmering over Alpine hearths and stone-paved alleys, leaving behind traffic and city noise.
Day-by-day itinerary details
Day 1 — The eastern shore of the lake from above
Morning
Your day begins on the eastern shore of the lake in the province of Lecco, using the regional rail network. Stepping off at Lierna, you will immediately find Ristorante Il Crotto di Lierna, a traditional lakeside crotto ideal for breakfast or a bite of local specialities before starting the climb. From here, pick up the high variant of the Sentiero del Viandante (Tratto Lierna - Varenna). This ancient mule track traverses mid-slope, offering continuous panoramas across the water below. The terrain requires care and a measured pace: expect to spend around four to five hours on this section, walking in the cool morning air.
Afternoon
Once past the steepest climb, the mule track approaches the hamlet of Perledo, just above Varenna. On the descent you will come across Crott del Pepot, a rustic trattoria with outdoor tables where you can catch your breath over polenta concia, local cheeses and cured meats. A short distance away stands Castello di Vezio, a medieval fortress perched high above the lake and surrounded by ancient olive groves. A visit takes one to two hours, giving you plenty of time to climb the panoramic tower and see the sculptures dotted across the lawn. After completing the descent into town, dedicate the rest of the afternoon to Villa Monastero. Its botanical gardens run for nearly two kilometres along the water's edge; allow at least an hour and a half to walk their full length and take in the plant collections.
Evening
As sunset approaches, the crowds begin to thin. This is the best time to stroll along the Passeggiata degli Innamorati, a metal and timber footbridge suspended above the water, linking the ferry dock directly to the historic core of Varenna. For dinner, head to the central piazza to take a table at Ristorante Al Prato, a characterful spot serving reworked traditional recipes from the lake and Valtellina. If you decide to spend the night in the village, you can walk directly to Hotel Royal Victoria, set right in the pedestrian zone.
Day 2 — Granite, Alpine valleys and thermal waters
Morning
Leaving the lake behind, make your way into Valtellina. Reaching Val Masino, you will enter the Riserva Naturale Val di Mello, often compared to a miniature Yosemite for the towering cliffs of pale granite that flank it. The hike along the valley floor takes about three to four hours there and back along a flat trail. Along the route, the main highlight is the water: you will pass the Cascata del Ferro e Bidet della Contessa, a crystal-clear natural pool fed by mountain streams, framed by glacial erratics and Alpine flora.
Afternoon
For lunch, the entrance to the reserve offers outdoor tables at Agriturismo Il Gatto Rosso, well known among walkers for its hearth-cooked polenta, homemade tarts and mountain pasture cheeses. If you prefer to push on to Cascina Piana at 1100 metres altitude, you will reach Rifugio Mello, a sturdy stone-and-timber hut dishing up hearty portions of pizzoccheri and steaming polenta taragna. In the early afternoon, drive on towards Alta Valtellina to reach QC Terme Bagni Vecchi in Valdidentro, just outside Bormio. This historic spa retains original Roman baths and a natural steam grotto, alongside a panoramic outdoor pool carved directly into the mountain rock. You will need a full half-day to do the thermal circuit justice.
Evening
Thoroughly relaxed by the warm waters, drop down in just a few minutes into the Centro Storico di Bormio e Kuerc. The town has preserved a distinct Alpine, medieval character, with historic stone streets and the cellars where Amaro Braulio is aged. An evening walk to Piazza del Kuerc makes the perfect prelude to dinner. Reserve a table at Ristorante Hotel Baita dei Pini on Via Don Evaristo Peccedi: the kitchen serves artisan bresaola, classic pizzoccheri and game dishes, paired with a bottle of red wine from the terraced Retici slopes of the province.
Practical tips for planning your two days
- For the first day on the lake, it is best to leave the car behind and travel exclusively by regional train on the Tirano-Lecco-Milano line, which calls at all the main lakeside villages including Lierna, Varenna and Bellano. To reach the Valtellina stops on day two, however, you will need a car or local valley buses, allowing around an hour and a half to travel from Lecco to Morbegno or Val Masino.
- Access to Val di Mello is restricted during peak season. On summer weekends and public holidays, vehicle entry is capped and requires purchasing a daily permit in San Martino. If the parking spaces are full, leave the car in the village and walk for about 30-40 minutes, or take advantage of the shuttle service running during the warmer months.
- The high trail from Lierna to Varenna does not reach extreme altitudes, but it traverses cobblestones, loose rocks and steep gradients. Tackling it in standard, flat-soled trainers is not recommended; opt for lightweight hiking boots with good grip and, if possible, a pair of trekking poles to take the strain off your joints.
- If you plan to have lunch at the mountain huts in Val di Mello on sunny weekends or spend time at QC Terme Bagni Vecchi, bear in mind that arriving without a booking often means being turned away. For the thermal baths in particular, it is essential to secure your time slot online several days in advance to avoid disappointment.
- Considering only meals, transport and admission fees, expect an average spend of around €80-130 per person. Specifically, Trenord train tickets cost between €3 and €5 each way, entry to the thermal baths or museums ranges from €30 to €65, while lunch at a mountain hut and dinner at a traditional trattoria will set you back roughly €30 to €45 per meal.
Where to stay between lake and mountains
A four-star hotel overlooking the waters of Lago di Como, situated right in the heart of the pedestrian zone.
View on Booking →An Alpine chalet built from stone and wood, making it an ideal base to stay directly inside Val di Mello.
View on Booking →A four-star property connected to the thermal spa, set on the panoramic hairpin bends of the Statale dello Stelvio.
View on Booking →