Exploring the Appennino Tosco-Emiliano means driving for dozens of kilometres along winding roads connecting remote valleys, climbing from 1,000 to over 2,000 metres in altitude within a few hours, and sitting down to rolling-pin-rolled pasta and local cured meats. This region offers a stark landscape of bare ridges, glacial lakes and dense woodlands that transform with the seasons.
Choosing when to go changes the experience entirely. From June to early October, conditions are ideal for high-altitude hikes, spotting autumn foliage and exploring villages in pleasant, crisp weather. If you head here between mid-December and late March or early April, the area turns into a destination for snow, snowshoeing and downhill skiing.
A car is essential for getting between trailheads and historic centres. The roads winding through the valleys of Cimone, Corno alle Scale and the Reggio side demand a leisurely pace, with average speeds hovering around 40-50 km/h. You should factor in at least an hour to an hour and a half of driving to move from one valley to the next, planning your travel times carefully before setting off.
Day-by-day itinerary
Day 1 — From the Trebbia river to the glacial lake
Morning
The route begins on the western flank, in Val Trebbia. At Bobbio e Ponte Gobbo, walk above the Trebbia river across the irregular arches of the medieval bridge, then wander into the historic centre, famous for the thousand-year-old Abbazia di San Colombano. After your visit, take to the road again towards Alta Val d'Arda. In Vernasca, you will find Vigoleno e Mastio del Castello, a fortified village that has preserved its original layout. Allow about an hour and a half to explore the sentry walk, the keep and the defensive walls, taking in views of the surrounding gullies from above.
Afternoon
In the afternoon, head towards the Parma side and enter the Parco dei Cento Laghi. The destination is Lago Santo Parmense, the largest natural glacial lake in the Appennino emiliano, set in the municipality of Corniglio. You can reach the water with a walk of around 45 minutes starting from Rifugio Lagdei, or by using the chairlift when open in season. Reaching an altitude of 1,507 metres, Rifugio Giovanni Mariotti is the local CAI mountain refuge where you can recharge with hearty mountain dishes after a walk around the lake shores.
Evening
For dinner, head down to Ghiare di Corniglio. Trattoria da Vigion serves traditional mountain salumi and handmade anolini in brodo (meat-filled pasta parcels in rich broth), delivering an authentic taste of the Appennino parmense rooted firmly in local tradition.
Day 2 — Dante's crag and the Moorish castle
Morning
The morning takes you into the territory of Castelnovo ne' Monti. Arrive early at Piazzale Dante to leave the car before tackling the climb up to the Pietra di Bismantova, an imposing rocky plateau and cliff face that draws both walkers and climbers. Along the initial mule track, you will quickly come across the Eremo della Pietra di Bismantova, a medieval sanctuary tucked into the base of the rock; allow around 30 minutes for a quick look inside. From there, continue along the circular hiking trail leading up to the summit; the full trek takes between 2 and 3 hours.
Afternoon
Drive towards Grizzana Morandi to visit the [Rocchetta Mattei](booking-tour), a castle of striking, eclectic architecture that blends Moorish design with Arab-medieval motifs, seen most vividly in the courtyard of the lions and the chapel. Entry is strictly by a one-hour guided tour, which must be booked online well before setting off.
Evening
Driving towards Rocca di Roffeno, in the municipality of Castel d'Aiano, round off the day at Osteria Santa Lucia. This trattoria focuses on mountain cooking from the Bologna and Emilia regions, filling tables with tigelle, borlenghi and freshly handmade pasta.
Day 3 — Forest waterfalls and ridgeline lakes
Morning
In Lizzano in Belvedere, you enter the territory of the Parco del Corno alle Scale. The first stop is the Santuario di Madonna dell'Acero, which is well worth 30-45 minutes before hitting the trails. This is the starting point for a circular hike of one and a half to two hours towards the Cascate del Dardagna. The waterfalls tumble down through seven consecutive drops, surrounded by dense beech forests that keep the trail comfortably shaded even in warmer months.
Afternoon
Resuming your walk on the Corno alle Scale massif, which reaches nearly 1,945 metres, the woods give way to sweeping ridgelines. Walking along the high-altitude trails, you will reach Lago Scaffaiolo. Sitting at 1,785 metres on the border between the provinces of Modena and Bologna, this mountain lake marks the dividing line between Corno alle Scale and the Parco del Frignano.
Evening
Head down towards Fellicarolo di Fanano to an altitude of 1,220 metres. Rifugio I Taburri sits on the slopes of the Modena ridge and serves crescentine, salumi and other hearty classics of the high Apennines, perfect for restoring your energy after a day on the trails.
Day 4 — The highest peak and stone alleys
Morning
The final day takes you straight to the Vetta del Monte Cimone, which at 2,165 metres is the highest point in the entire region. After leaving the car at the Cimoncino car park between Fanano and Sestola, set out on a fairly long circular hike taking between 5 and 6 hours in total. In the winter months, this area becomes the Comprensorio Sciistico del Cimone, the premier ski resort in the Appennino modenese, offering 50 kilometres of pistes and snowshoe trails.
Afternoon
Descending in altitude, head to Fiumalbo, a village nestled inside the Parco del Frignano. The Borgo Medievale di Fiumalbo features stone houses, cobbled lanes and slate roofs; exploring it on foot takes around two hours. As you wander, you will pass the Chiesa di San Bartolomeo e Oratori Storici: the 13th-century church is flanked by the Oratorio di San Rocco and the Oratorio di Santa Caterina, the latter housing the Museo d'Arte Sacra.
Evening
Heading back into Fanano, you can dine at Il Mirtillo Nero Osteria 2.0, a central spot known for handmade tortelloni and local woodland produce. Alternatively, if staying at [Hotel Gabriella](booking-hotel) in the hamlet of Canevare, take a seat at Trattoria Albergo Gabriella to end the trip with wild mushrooms, chestnuts and regional game.
Top tips for planning your trip
- To climb the crag in the Reggio area, arrive early in the morning at Piazzale Dante to secure a parking space before the trails get crowded. For Emilia's highest peak, the main free high-altitude car park is at Cimoncino, while for the woods around Lizzano you can easily leave your car at the Santuario di Madonna dell'Acero.
- You cannot visit the eclectic castle in Grizzana Morandi independently. You must book the mandatory guided tour via their official website, keeping in mind that the booking system usually cuts off requests by 18:00 on the Friday before the weekend.
- Do not underestimate clothing requirements at high altitude. Between 1,000 and 2,000 metres the weather can change rapidly: you will need sturdy walking boots with good grip, a windproof and waterproof jacket, and plenty of water in your rucksack.
- For a weekend in this area, budget around €50 to €75 per person per day for meals in mountain refuges or trattorie, plus €12 for the ticket to Rocchetta Mattei and fuel for the mountain roads, excluding your accommodation costs.
Where to stay
Located at the foot of Monte Cimone, featuring an on-site restaurant serving traditional dishes and a handy ski storage room.
View on Booking →A comfortable stay in the village's historic centre with a terrace offering panoramic views straight out over the mountains.
View on Booking →Situated close to the ski resort access points, offering a welcoming base immersed in the local natural surroundings.
View on Booking →