There is a side to Sanremo that reaches far beyond the spotlights and song contests: it is made of stone stairways, palms casting shade over the water, and architecture echoing the grand holidays of the nobility. Here, the mild Riviera di Ponente climate ensures pleasant days in every season, making the town an appealing destination all year round. The only period best avoided is the week of the Festival in February, when prices soar and traffic grinds to a halt.

The sea is an ever-present backdrop, but experiencing it properly takes the right pace. The centre is explored strictly on foot, whilst cycling is the best way to trace the coastline further afield. In between, you will find the gentle rhythm of a village reborn through art, alongside the Belle Époque flourishes recalling an era when writers and empresses walked these streets.

Two days discovering Sanremo

Day 1 — The old town and the seafront

Morning

Start your day by stepping into La Pigna (Centro Storico), the medieval heart of Sanremo. It is a tangle of stone carrugi, stairways and vaulted archways that can only be explored on foot, taking around an hour or two with no need to book in advance. Stop for lunch at Spaghetteria Il Mulattiere, a historic restaurant tucked away in the alleys of La Pigna, or opt for Osteria Camelot in via Morardo, known for its warm atmosphere and local dishes.

Afternoon

After lunch, head down towards the modern town centre and stop in piazza San Siro to see the Concattedrale di San Siro, the oldest religious building in town, dating back to Romanesque times. Just a few steps away lies via Matteotti, the pedestrianised shopping street: a photo outside the entrance to the Teatro Ariston is a must here. Then stroll on towards corso Imperatrice to walk along the Passeggiata dell'Imperatrice, an elegant marble promenade lined with palm trees, ideal for the late afternoon.

Evening

For the evening, take a romantic stroll around the Porto Vecchio di Sanremo, watching the classic boats moored in the harbour. Nearby you will find several sea-view restaurants. Alternatively, if you prefer to stay in the centre, dine at Controcorrente in piazza Sardi for fresh pasta with pesto or traditional brandacujun, or head to Trattoria Da Tino in via Gaudio for affordable, home-style seafood.

Day 2 — Art, cycling and panoramic views

Morning

Spend half a day at Bussana Vecchia (Borgo degli Artisti), a village ruined by the 1887 earthquake and brought back to life by an international community who turned its ruins into workshops and studios. Back in town for lunch, try the renowned borage-filled ravioli at MaMa Ristorante in via Gaudio.

Afternoon

In the afternoon, hire a bicycle or a tandem and ride along the Pista Ciclabile del Parco Costiero, which follows the old coastal railway line right beside the sea. The ride takes around two hours, and you can extend your route eastwards to visit Villa Nobel in corso Felice Cavallotti, a neo-Moorish residence converted into a science museum (the visit lasts about an hour). Cycling back west, pause to admire the onion domes of the Chiesa Russa Ortodossa (Cristo Salvatore), which takes just half an hour to see.

Evening

Head up towards the highest part of La Pigna at sunset. Here you will find the Giardini Regina Elena, terraced gardens perfect for a scenic break, and just above them the Santuario della Madonna della Costa, offering sweeping views across the gulf. Round off the evening taking in the illuminated facade of the Casinò Municipale di Sanremo in corso degli Inglesi, an early-twentieth-century Art Nouveau masterpiece.

Practical tips for your trip

  • To sample freshly baked sardenaira and focaccia from local bakeries, it is best to arrive before 10:30 at weekends; otherwise, you risk long queues or finding the counters completely empty.
  • Driving in the centre is difficult due to traffic and the lack of free parking; one of the most convenient paid underground car parks is Silos Palafiori in Corso Garibaldi.
  • The old town alleys are narrow and filled with steps: exploring them can only be done on foot. Along the coast, however, renting a bicycle is the best option.
  • To reach Bussana Vecchia, where the roads are steep and parking is virtually non-existent, it is best to rely on local buses or minivans, leaving your car in the valley below.

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