The Alta Murgia imposes its breath: endless-seeming barren expanses, clean air and an ancient silence. Santeramo in Colle, on the highest point of the Barese hills, is the perfect observatory to absorb this rhythm made of stone, wind and farming tradition, far from the region's more saturated tourist trails.
The town and its surrounding countryside demand unhurried discovery, especially in spring and early autumn when temperatures allow long nature walks without the summer humidity. And at the end of every day outdoors, the scent of charcoal-grilled meat in the alleyways is the true seal of the local experience. If you decide to stay at La Ferula Bed&Pool, you will already be immersed in the countryside surrounding the centre.
Four days in the heart of the Murgia
Day 1 — Stone and devotion in Santeramo
Morning
Start your exploration from the historic centre of Santeramo in Colle, arriving in Piazza Garibaldi to admire the ancient geometries. Your first stop is the Palazzo Marchesale Caracciolo-Carafa, a 16th-century building that takes about 45 minutes to visit, including the internal picture gallery. A short walk away is the Chiesa Matrice di Sant'Erasmo, with its Baroque facade: it is best to go inside in the morning to avoid interfering with religious services.
Afternoon
After lunch, the maze of streets leads you to the Chiesa e Cappella di Sant'Eligio: a small 13th-century building preserving Byzantine-influenced frescoes, which you can visit by arranging it in advance with the local Pro Loco. Not far from here, it is worth reaching the Chiesa del Carmine e Cappella della Madonna di Costantinopoli in via Toti, looked after by a historic local brotherhood.
Evening
For your first dinner, immerse yourself straight away in the local ritual of the fornello pronto. At the Macelleria Braceria Giannini (Fornello Pronto) in via Cassano, you can choose raw cuts from the counter, which will then be cooked over olive wood embers. Few tables and plenty of substance.
Day 2 — Among oaks, brigands and quite murgiane
Morning
Leave the town heading towards the Santeramo countryside to discover traces of man and nature. Your first stop is the evocative Grotta di Sant'Angelo, an underground rock sanctuary with centuries-old graffiti: allow about an hour for the descent and visit. Next, explore the rural route of the Sentiero delle Quite Murgiane, walking among farms divided by monumental dry stone walls built in past centuries.
Afternoon
The afternoon is dedicated to the shade of the woods, precious on the plateau. The Bosco di Mesola offers wide paths for walking in the Murgian silence. For those looking for a bit of dynamism or travelling with children, the Parco dei Briganti is a nature oasis equipped with trails suspended among the pines: here you can easily spend 3 or 4 hours surrounded by nature.
Evening
Heading back towards town, stop at the renowned Macelleria Braceria I Giardini della Carne in via Giuseppe di Vittorio. It serves bombette and braciole outdoors; at weekends it is essential to book a table in advance.
Day 3 — Large karst voids and rock-hewn charm
Morning
Drive towards Altamura, less than twenty kilometres away. You are stopping in the city to admire the majestic Cattedrale di Santa Maria Assunta e Claustri di Altamura, a masterpiece commissioned by Frederick II, nestled among the typical closed courtyards of the old town. Just outside the city opens the chasm of the Pulo di Altamura: an impressive karst sinkhole over 70 metres deep. Exploring it from above takes about an hour and a half.
Afternoon
Drive on towards Gravina in Puglia, about half an hour from Santeramo. The most spectacular spot is the Rupi e Ponte Acquedotto di Gravina in Puglia, a daring stone viaduct suspended over the canyon connecting the town to the rock habitat carved into the sides of the gravina, offering a raw and fascinating panorama.
Evening
Back in Santeramo, change your perspective on meat and sit down at a table in the Osteria Santa Lucia, in the historic centre. Here, the menu champions the inland's pasta dishes, with hand-rolled orecchiette and flavourful, humble traditional recipes.
Day 4 — From the Cammino Materano to the Sassi
Morning
Your last morning starts early by tackling a section of the Tappa Santeramo-Altamura (Via Peuceta - Cammino Materano) on foot. The Murgian karst steppe has a distinct light in the morning and is populated by the typical lino delle fate (feather grass). The sun exposure requires an early start and suitable footwear for the uneven ground.
Afternoon
In the afternoon, get back in the car to cover the roughly 25 kilometres separating Santeramo from the famous Sassi e Chiese Rupestri di Matera. Reaching the Sassi allows you to explore on foot the intricate narrow streets carved into the tuff, extending your visit until the sunset sets the entire stone nativity scene aglow with warm light.
Evening
To finish on a high note, enjoy one last taste of Murgian tradition at the Braceria Da Masin in Santeramo, known for its excellent open-fire cooking of local roasts.
Practical tips for the Alta Murgia
- A car is essential for getting around between Santeramo, Altamura, Matera and the nature sites, as intercity bus services are sparse, particularly on public holidays.
- Santeramo is a budget-friendly destination for meals, with an average spend of between 25€ and 35€ for rich meat-based dinners, whilst access to many nature trails and churches is free.
- At weekends, the macellerie-bracerie fill up early: you must book and sit down for dinner before 21:00 or 21:30 so you don't find the best cuts sold out.
- The trails of the Cammino Materano and the open countryside offer little shade and no water fountains: you need to bring proper shoes and at least a litre and a half of water per person.
- To visit the centre of Santeramo, it is best to park on the white lines along Corso Italia or near Piazza Garibaldi, avoiding driving your car into the medieval alleyways.
Where to base yourself for the weekend
A quiet farm stay base with an outdoor pool and convenient parking, for those who love countryside relaxation.
View on Booking →A practical hotel with free parking and an on-site restaurant, ideal for those seeking essential services in town.
View on Booking →A central location and a warm welcome in a comfortable home, perfect for exploring the town's churches and fornelli on foot.
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