Central Puglia offers a sharp contrast between the rugged Adriatic cliffs and the rolling countryside of Valle d'Itria. Within a few kilometres, you leave the crashing waves of Lama Monachile behind for the quiet of trulli surrounded by ancient olive trees. This itinerary focuses on the stretch between the coast of Polignano a Mare and the historic inland villages.
For a weekend trip, the best seasons are April–May or September–October: the temperatures allow you to spend the whole day outdoors, tables at restaurants are easy to come by, and the narrow lanes of the historic centres are free from summer crowds. Getting around requires a hire car, as distances are short but poorly served by public transport.
3-day itinerary: what to do
Day 1 — The coast: Polignano and Monopoli
Morning
Your first day begins at the Centro Storico e Balconate Panoramiche di Polignano. Allow a couple of hours to explore the maze of whitewashed houses and read the poetic verses written on the walls, pausing at the terraces perched right over the Adriatic. Heading down, you reach famous Lama Monachile, the cove tucked between two rock faces: the morning light is superb and there are fewer people around.
Afternoon
A 15-minute drive brings you down to Monopoli. Castello Carlo V on Lungomare Santa Maria takes about 45 minutes to tour its 16th-century rooms. Right after, head over to Porto Vecchio di Monopoli, framed by defensive walls, where the traditional red and blue wooden gozzi fishing boats bob on the water.
Evening
For dinner, stay in Monopoli and book a table at Trattoria La Locanda dei Mercanti in the historic centre, well known for its fresh catch and traditional recipes at sensible prices. Alternatively, head back to Polignano a Mare for Ristorante Antiche Mura in Via Roma 11, offering an elegant seafood dinner paired with regional wines.
Day 2 — Underground and among the trulli
Morning
Start the morning with the Grotte di Castellana. The complete 3-kilometre route takes around 100 minutes and leads all the way to Grotta Bianca. The temperature inside is constant at 16.5°C with high humidity, so bring a light jacket and sensible shoes. From Castellana, head towards Alberobello to explore Rione Monti, a UNESCO World Heritage site with over a thousand trulli: arrive before 10:00 to beat the large tour groups.
Afternoon
After lunch at Coppino Cucina Tradizionale at the foot of Rione Monti—trying the orecchiette alle cime di rapa or brasciole—visit the nearby Trullo Sovrano in Piazza Sacramento. It is the only two-storey trullo building, now a museum, and takes about 30–40 minutes to tour. Close by stands the Chiesa a Trullo di Sant'Antonio, built entirely with the characteristic conical roof.
Evening
Spend the evening in Rione Aia Piccola, the more residential quarter of Alberobello. With its 400 trulli and no shops, it makes for a quiet, authentic stroll. To sleep in keeping with the theme, opt for Trulli Holiday Albergo Diffuso right in the centre.
Day 3 — The villages of Valle d'Itria
Morning
The final day is devoted to the villages. Begin at the Centro Storico di Locorotondo, known for its circular layout and houses with pointed roofs called cummerse. The stroll along Via Nardelli, known as Lungomare Panoramico di Locorotondo, offers sweeping views over countryside dotted with olive trees and trulli.
Afternoon
A few kilometres away lies the Centro Storico di Cisternino, a tangle of small squares and whitewashed alleys regarded as one of Italy's prettiest villages. Head towards the coast to finish with the Centro Storico di Ostuni and its late-Gothic Cattedrale di Santa Maria Assunta: the sunset views across the olive plain are striking.
Evening
Dinner in Cisternino offers two classic choices: traditional butcher-grills (fornelli pronti) like Arrosteria del Vicoletto, where you pick bombette and zampina at the counter to have them cooked on the wood-fired spit, or Osteria Bell'Italia for refined artisan dishes in a romantic setting.
Practical tips for your trip
- To travel easily between the coast and the hilltop villages of Valle d'Itria, hiring a car in Bari or Brindisi is the most practical choice: distances are short (15–30 minutes), but public transport connections are sparse.
- Take note of the historic centres in Polignano a Mare, Monopoli, Locorotondo and Cisternino: all are pedestrianised or subject to ZTL rules. Park in the paid bays outside the walls to avoid fines.
- To enjoy Alberobello's trulli districts without the crowds, aim to arrive between 08:30 and 10:00, or alternatively wait until evening after sunset.
- Whether for popular seaside restaurants or the historic butcher-grills in Cisternino, you will need to book a table a few days in advance at weekends.
- For the Grotte di Castellana, booking tickets online is strongly recommended to guarantee your slot on the full tour.
Where to stay
Restored stone trulli in the centre of Alberobello for an atmospheric stay.
View on Booking →Elegant masseria with 16th-century trulli and a pool in the countryside, 6–7 km from town.
View on Booking →Boutique hotel set within a historic village of trulli, featuring an outdoor pool.
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