To explore both the hinterland and the coast in a single weekend, a car is the only way to make the most of your travel time. This weekend in Marche involves a bit of driving, allowing around an hour and a quarter to get from the Montefeltro hills to the Genga area via the SS76, and another fifty minutes to reach the Adriatic coast.

The best time to go is from May to late June, or between September and October. During these months, temperatures make it pleasant to walk the headland trails and explore historic centres without having to face the August heat and peak-season crowds.

How to plan your days

Day 1 — Urbino and the walls of Gradara

Morning

The day begins in the Centro storico di Urbino. The Palazzo Ducale di Urbino e Galleria Nazionale delle Marche takes around two hours; it is best to visit in the morning to take in the architecture commissioned by Federico da Montefeltro and the works by Raffaello and Piero della Francesca on display inside. A few minutes' walk away, in Via Donato Bramante, you'll find Ristorante Taverna degli Artisti, where the menu serves classics from the Marche hinterland, from passatelli with porcini mushrooms to coniglio in porchetta.

Afternoon

Heading north by car brings you to Gradara. Here the focus is on the Rocca Demaniale di Gradara, the medieval fortress historically linked to the tale of Paolo and Francesca. Touring the interior and the patrol walkways takes about an hour and a half.

Evening

Heading back towards the hills of Urbino, plan dinner at L'Angolo Divino, located in Via Sant'Andrea 14. The restaurant offers a menu that changes daily based on market-fresh ingredients, paired with a selection of local natural wines.

Day 2 — The Frasassi caves and arriving at the sea

Morning

After driving along the SS76, you reach the Genga area. The first stop is the Tempio del Valadier ed Eremo di Santa Maria Infra Saxa. Reaching it involves an uphill walk of about 800 metres along a paved path, taking 25-30 minutes; it is best tackled early in the morning to beat the heat and avoid the crowds. Next, head over to the subterranean complex of the Grotte di Frasassi. The classic tour lasts 75 minutes and must strictly be booked in advance.

Afternoon

Before leaving the area, the Abbazia di San Vittore delle Chiuse, a Romanesque Greek-cross church set along the Sentino river, is well worth a 30-45 minute stop. Stop for lunch in Fabriano at Ristorante Marchese del Grillo, housed in the cellars of a historic villa. From here, drive 50 minutes towards the Riviera del Conero until you reach Sirolo. Round off the afternoon exploring the Belvedere e Centro Storico di Sirolo, with its medieval alleys and terrace sheer above the Adriatic.

Evening

Stay in the Centro storico di Sirolo for dinner. Ristorante della Rosa sits right at the entrance to the village and features a panoramic terrace, with a menu focused on seafood flavours and local catch.

Day 3 — The Conero trails and the poetry of Recanati

Morning

The morning is dedicated to the Parco Regionale del Conero. The Sentiero Passo del Lupo e vista Due Sorelle winds through Mediterranean scrub for about an hour and a half, leading to a direct viewpoint over the famous sea stacks. Afterwards, head to Spiaggia San Michele e Sassi Neri in Sirolo, a white pebble beach reachable via a footpath or seasonal shuttle. Lunch requires a booking at Ristorante Da Silvio, set right next to the beach and known for its moscioli (wild mussels) and generous seafood pasta dishes.

Afternoon

Head towards Numana to see Numana Alta e Belvedere La Torre, a cluster of fishermen's houses with a terrace overlooking the coastal cliffs. The itinerary then continues towards Recanati to visit the Museo Casa Leopardi e Biblioteca, which requires advance booking for the 45-60 minute guided tour. Right after, spend 45 minutes at the Orto sul Colle dell'Infinito, a FAI heritage garden offering sweeping views across the Sibillini mountains.

Evening

Finish the trip back on the coast, in Numana at Via del Golfo 25. At 30 Nodi, tables are set out on the beach near the marina, serving tagliatelle with moscioli paired with Marche DOCG wines.

Top tips for your trip

  • During your visit to the Grotte di Frasassi, the temperature is a constant 14°C with high humidity levels. A sweatshirt and closed-toe shoes with non-slip soles are essential, even in summer.
  • The parking area at the foot of the trail to the Tempio del Valadier ed Eremo di Santa Maria Infra Saxa has very few spaces. It is best to arrive by 9:00 or, alternatively, park at the cave ticket office and take the shuttle.
  • Parking is scarce and subject to fees in the centres of Sirolo and Numana. During the warmer months, using the municipal shuttle buses is the most practical way to reach the beaches.
  • When hiking the Sentiero Passo del Lupo e vista Due Sorelle, stop at the viewpoint. Walking down to the beach is prohibited by local safety orders due to the risk of rockfalls.

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